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[Theo]

What glue would you use? Something that could be dissolved easily I suppose.
Would wax do the job?

No!  You need something strong and permanent.

[Theo]

Permanent is what has me worried!
What to do if it goes pear shaped?

Make your plans carefully and thoroughly, measure, make detailed drawings ....

I had been wondering about how to drill the holes accurately and getting the alignment correct.
Any tips?

Don't drill them cut them out with a razor sharp blade, knife and/or chisel.  There is not sufficient room for round holes anyway, they need to be rectangular.  Look at the way the slides are laid out on the block with slides - the non slide blocks have the same spacing between hole centres, even though the holes there are circular, but I believe you will have to use rectangular holes to get the slides to close the holes fully.

I think you may have in mind to make a pocket for the slide which completely encloses the slide?  Forget that idea.  The simplest method is to create a channel on the lower surface of the block by gluing a narrow strip of material down either side of the block.  Really need a drawing to explain it.  Look at the way most  bass stop slides are constructed on Italian boxes to see this simple idea in use.

[Andy Simpson]

Magnets...

[Andy Simpson]

Two little neodymium magnets, one in the centre of the block attached to the stop, push it against the case and mark out around where the other one lines up with it. Simples.

[Theo]

Accuracy of drilling the holes in the top is not quit as critical as you might think.  The stop will screw into a block attached to the slide, do not drill the hole until everything else is assembled, then drill through the case and the block on one operation.  As long as the hole hits the block well away from the edges you are ok.
You also have to work out if there is sufficient space for these blocks, and you may need to strip out the original coupler mechanism, and quite likey you will need to modify the way the block is held on place.

[Adam-T]

As regards the trend for dry tuning here in Eire, I think that has changed somewhat in recent years.
I have seen more and more box players return to the old Paolo boxes but that's another story
for another day perhaps.

Yep - it`s a trend over here too which I wish would revert - personally If I want dry I prefer a proper 1 voicer like the Lilly or Epsilon otherwise it has to be the traditional Hohner wet tuning or a 3 voice Alpine or Scottish Musette . I`d love a D/G Primatona or A/D/G Gaelic IV (96 bass version)

[Clive Williams]

I've been wondering lately about the practicality of a two in one D/G and Dm/Gm box. Rather than using 2 complete sets of reeds, you'd use one set, and add an extra couple of reedplates/holes for the minor notes, a pallet mechanism that opened both the major and minor versions of the changed notes, and a simple stop mechanism to switch that between the two reedplates. A custom build job, and virtually impossible to retrofit to an existing box perhaps, but it would be neat, wouldn't it?

[Mike Hirst]

I've been wondering lately about the practicality of a two in one D/G and Dm/Gm box.

Organetto Maggiore Minore

http://ianniorganetti.it/portfolio-item/organetto-maggiore-minore/

[Clive Williams]

Dang!

[reelkidmusic]

Aradru,

I have been thinking about this idea for a good few years now.  I have always wanted to be used to the feeling of one accordion and have the option to change from B/C to C/C# so that I could play in E flat when the rare opportunity would arise.  From my own thinking, and I have put a lot of thought into it, the idea of using the stops is probably the easiest method.  You would need quite a complex cuppler mechanism to switch the blocks with having just two cupplers.

I think the saltarelle idea (despite the cost) is a very good option!

[mory]

Aradru I think it's all very possible, Charlie Marshal may have some sliders, he used to have a fair stock. I don't think you need to start drilling stops on the top of the box, with some ingenuity it is quite possible to adapt the existing couplers to a new configuration but you would have to make some new mechanisms, not too difficult or complicated, you need to get a look in some old style P.A's .
I think your main problem will be how exceptable you find the clatter of 4 voice pallets when only two voices are sounding (this is also more exaggerated when the box is tuned quite dry) it's one thing on a modern small pallet box but its quite something else on an older large box like a Paolo or as in your case an Amatona. You could experiment with this by just blocking of the LM in you box (paper under the reed blocks will do) and see what you think of the sound, you may save yourself a whole bunch of trouble if you do this before making a decision. All the Best mory

[reelkidmusic]

BCC# would get you there but I know what you mean. Two tunings on a two row is very attractive.

I know that but I don't fancy the size and weight of having a 3 row accordion!!

[Adam-T]

I know that but I don't fancy the size and weight of having a 3 row accordion!!

The 2 voice Trichords are if anything lighter than the Primatona and certainly no bigger, a 4 row "Quadchord-II"  would be ideal for you B/C/C#/D though the only true 4 row boxes are steirisches which really are bigger and heavier than a primatona.

[Mike Hirst]

the only true 4 row boxes are steirisches

 

Four row diatonics are popular with many of the younger Tejano players.

e.g.

• Hohner Rey Del Norte III 4
• 4 Row 3 Register Gabbanelli

[george garside]

3 row trichord 2(voice)  9lb

  ''           ''       3  ''       10lb

 2 row  primatona 4v      10.5 lb

     ''     amatona  4v      11.25lb

      ''    corso      3v        9lb  (aalso doublr ray delux 3v)

I have come accross a couple of  hohner 4 stop single rows convertedd to 4 keys    and that seems quite a good idea to me  . Whatever combination you want but  I think I would go for  EbBb DG  or maybe  BbFCG,  or maybe CGDA or maybe or maybe!  or perhaps stick to a pocket full of mouthies  or a Trichord!

george

[Adam-T]

Four row diatonics are popular with many of the younger Tejano players.

Wow, learn something every day ! Who knows whatelse is lurking about

[Keithypete.]

I would have bet large amounts of money AGAINST a Primatona IV voice weighing as much as 10.5 lbs. Mine feels very well balanced when playing, light even.

I think all this is a lot of work for little return. I'm very satisfied with my II voice, 2 row. I'm not even keen on the idea of III voices - MML, anymore. Get the best 2 row you can afford, spend the money on quality reeds etc - not a NAME, or buzzers & bells.

[The Idle Rich]

My Primatona also weighs in at 10 lbs.

[Adam-T]

I thought we ditched imperial weights decades I`ve not  got a clue what 10Lbs means anymore, I was only a kid in the 70s when Lbs and ounces fizzled out . if we`re talking about 4 to 5 Kg (the weight of a Corona) then they`re all in the "light" ball park

[The Idle Rich]

10 lbs. = 4.53592 kg.