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[Dave Sawdon]

Hi folks. this is my first appearance on this forum so be gentle with me.
A few weeks ago I was given a badly broken Weldmeister East German D/G which I've repaired and which has got me back into melodeon playing (I normally play Mandolin) for the first time in nearly 30 years - somehow that led to me signing-up for EP's course in August!

I have several questions; if you can answer any of these I'd be very grateful:

• I need to decide on the layout but, with my present absence of knowledge, I need to consult the combined wisdom of the seasoned melodeonistas that lurk in these parts. I've read that EP's layout (attached) is good (he says he has used it for a long time and "it is chromatic in pull on more than one octave, the accidentals are in the good sense with the bass possibilities") but I can see the appeal of a 4th button start to give a low G and I can see the appeal of an F natural. What does the team think?
• There's a choice of either octave or unison tuning - I'll go for unison tuning but like the idea of having a stop to be able to turn off one set to take away the beat - have others found this useful?
• What tools have people found useful? I've built several stringed instruments so have a good selection of tools but I don't want to drag a pile of stuff down there that I don't need.

Looking forward to meeting some of you in August.

[Theo]

Hi Dave, and welcome.
Fourth button start only really comes into its own with a two row instrument where you want to have low notes and a couple of buttons with accidentals. You have six buttons for accidentals on the Pariselle box. Also it only has 9 buttons on the G row so you could find that useful top notes are missing.

If you want a low G the a common mod is to change the low F# on the first button of the D row. That is something that could easily be altered at any time. Another useful note to consider is to change the low E draw on the first button to a low C.  The E is duplicated on button 3 on the D row.

[Dunny]

Hi Dave, and I echo Theo's welcome!

When I built my box I tried to combine Lester's and Emmanuel's layouts and got into a right pickle that Emmanuel had to sort out for me on the fly. My advice is to trust the man, I ended up with his layout and I'm really happy with it.

Re tools, you will need lots and lots and lots or sandpaper! I brought a number of spring clamps which I did use, and a whole load of tools, drill etc which I didn't. My group liaised regarding what we needed and shared as necessary as well as helping eachother out practically. I had probably the best experience ever and made many friends. Have a great time!

[Dave Sawdon]

Thanks Theo and Dunny (and DavidJ) - I would be daft to ignore expert advice so I'm going to stick with EP's layout but do the F#>G and E>C swaps.
The plan is therefore to use EP's 10/9/6 layout with F# changed to G and E changed to C, a stop to switch-out one voice, 14 basses ... unless someone else comes up with a convincing argument for something else ... ?

Dunny: some pre-course liaison sounds like a good plan. Did EP send out an email list of attendees beforehand or did you get together by comments here?
I guess it's early to think about tools in detail but, off the top of my head, I would think of: a range of planes and chisels, sharpening stones, scrapers, small router for inlays, small battery drill, screwdrivers, small hammer, scalpels, straight edge, rulers, magnifier, marking knife, marking gauge, shooting board, abrasives, files, rasps, clamps, Titebond ... does this seem reasonable, OTT or lacking some major thingumy?

[Nick Collis Bird]

Welcome Dave,
All the major machinery Emmanuel does supply, even down to sandpaper glue and screws. All the wood supplied is already prepared and planed. The scroll saw, flat bed sander, router etc will be there. Emmanuel is a great believer in jigs / as well as gigs. Even the spring clamps are provided. You will need to bring very little. BUT as in my  previous post, a small screwdriver with a V cut into the tip, a set of drills and an cordless screwdriver/ Drill  are all you need. Pencils of course and also maybe a setsquare if you are really fussy. Again as I said earlier, whatever you bring, mark them well.
  Everybody lends their tools and advice freely. You will have a wonderful time, learn a lot and make some wonderful friends and you will love Emmanuel's sense of humour. Watch out for " now plenty of Wool Wiring" have a great time, I know you will.
  Oh! And take your existing box with you, there's lots of playing while you work.

[exiletaff]

Dave,
take the opportunity to make a nice grille to fit on your welty. It looks very rude as it is, without one.

Alun

[Steve_freereeder]

Thanks Theo and Dunny (and DavidJ) - I would be daft to ignore expert advice so I'm going to stick with EP's layout but do the F#>G and E>C swaps.
The plan is therefore to use EP's 10/9/6 layout with F# changed to G and E changed to C, a stop to switch-out one voice, 14 basses ... unless someone else comes up with a convincing argument for something else ... ?

Dunny: some pre-course liaison sounds like a good plan. Did EP send out an email list of attendees beforehand or did you get together by comments here?
I guess it's early to think about tools in detail but, off the top of my head, I would think of: a range of planes and chisels, sharpening stones, scrapers, small router for inlays, small battery drill, screwdrivers, small hammer, scalpels, straight edge, rulers, magnifier, marking knife, marking gauge, shooting board, abrasives, files, rasps, clamps, Titebond ... does this seem reasonable, OTT or lacking some major thingumy?

Having now built two one-rows on EP's courses I can echo Nick's reassurances. You will not need planes, router or shooting board. Here's my list of essentials:

1. Good supplies of 120, 240 and 400 grade carborundum paper
2. Cork sanding block
3. Clamps, clamps and more clamps of different sizes. You can never have too many clamps.
4. Set of good quality screwdrivers, small medium large, both straight blade and cross-head types. Magnetic tips very useful. The good quality is essential, as there is a lot of screwing/unscrewing to be done and worn/damaged screwdriver tips can damage the screws.
5. Own supply of PVA woodworking glue – just because it is convenient to have to hand on one’s own bench.
6. Cutting board
7. Sharp craft knife/Stanley knife and oilstone for touching up and maintaining edge. 
8. 12-inch and 6-inch steel rules in inches and metric.
9. Pencils, pencil sharpener
10. small size drills 1mm – 2mm dia in 0.2 mm steps.
11. small handbrace or pin vice for drills. Dremel useful but not essential. Prefer the fine control of hand drilling using a pin vice.
12. Small hammer
13. hand spike/bodkin or centre punch
14. plenty of J-cloths or paper towels for mopping up, cleaning hands whilst gluing. etc.
15. Small paper scissors but need to be sharp. Can be touched up with an oilstone.
16. Small tube/bottle of cyano-acrylate glue ‘super glue’. Very useful for rapid and invisible repair of splinters, errors of cutting/drilling, etc.
17. Candle stub for waxing screw threads.
18. Scraps of wood to protect work from clamp jaws.
19. Steel wool 0000 grade for cutting back/finishing varnish coats
20. Set of small needle files
21. Small pliers – both round nose and flat nose.
22. Tweezers.
23. small chisel 1/4'” bevel-edge.
23. Small craft vice which can be clamped to a work bench. Useful for holding small components (e.g.the brass ornamental trimmings if they need to be filed down to the correct size.)
24. small try-square.
25. Cocktail sticks useful for cleaning up glue fillets e.g. when gluing bellows to frames.
26. Plastic take-away containers to keep small components together
27. LED torch/headlamp for poor lighting conditions.
28. Carpenter’s apron.
 

[Dave Sawdon]

Thanks to Nick and (especially) Steve - that list is going to be very useful.

Hi Alun - playing it at the pub last week was a bit of a rush because I'd only got it fixed and started playing a few days before, a fretted grille is in the plan for this (or next) week if I can find the right shape of tuit   
BTW I'm hoping to get my fingers round the Stockport and Redowa polkas for this week, are you going to join me?

[tom f]

Thanks Steve that's very useful.  I'm already planning for the 2016 course!
Tom

[Theo]

Just received these from Emmanuel, course details in English.

[Rog]

'German air pallet system'...what are the possible alternatives?

[MartinW]

This is the pull down button a la Hohner as opposed to the push in bar/button used by most Italian makers.