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Author Topic: Refurbishing a Hohner 1040  (Read 11329 times)

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Lester

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Re: replacing valves and tuning
« Reply #20 on: March 11, 2015, 10:43:45 PM »

Another handy reed cleaning tool is a polishing block.  These are made for cleaning circuit boards prior to soldering.  Consists of a rubbery material filled with a mild abrasive.  The fibreglass brush works well, but it does put a lot of glass fibre fragments into the air so you need a face mask.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/abrasive-polishing-block-hx04e

boxcall

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Re: replacing valves and tuning
« Reply #21 on: March 11, 2015, 10:44:30 PM »

Ok thanks Theo!
Does this work on under side of reed the part facing channel in reed block.
Maybe I would need to push reed though channel to access, although I don't think I could get it the full lenght of reed with this method. or would I cut a piece to fit within the channel?
Graham's fibre pen seems like it could get right in there.  There's only a couple reeds to address that look rusty.
Thanks,
Michael
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Hohner 1040 C, Beltuna one row four stop D, O'Byrne Dewitt/ Baldoni bros. D/C#, Paolo soprani "pepperpot" one row D

boxcall

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Re: replacing valves and tuning
« Reply #22 on: March 11, 2015, 11:04:30 PM »

I could get these on my side of the alantic
http://www.rockler.com/sandflex-flexible-abrasive-blocks
What would you recomend for grit fine, med,?
I could exactly use one of these any way to clean rusty tools as one of my tool boxes on truck has been leaking >:( or get some of that stuff you just dip the tools in.
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syale

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Re: replacing valves and tuning
« Reply #23 on: March 12, 2015, 12:06:46 AM »

If you have the reeds off the reed blocks Evaporust works (you can buy at Harbor Freight). I know as I have just done it. I also used the fiber glass pen for the really light stuff.  I don't think the sanding block will get in there, especially the corners and also think it might be too abrasive. I have the valves from CGM and they have no holes so I made my own with a rotary leather punch tool. Have to glue them on and wax next. The waxing will be interesting as I have never attempted that! I have a tool that might help me with the waxing but I will will share after I achieve success  ;)

Stephen
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boxcall

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Re: replacing valves and tuning
« Reply #24 on: March 12, 2015, 12:48:43 AM »

Hi Stephen.
Yeah, I thought about this stuff but wasn't sure if it was ok to use thinking that it leaves some kind of residue or coating.
Which could also effect the glue for valves unless you abrade first?  I'm in the process of ordering some stuff from CGM so I have some time to work on the rust.  Let me know how the waxing goes.
How's the weltmeister you bought?
Michael
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syale

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Re: replacing valves and tuning
« Reply #25 on: March 12, 2015, 01:01:32 AM »

I have not found there is a residue. I rinsed with water and set to dry in a dessicator I have for 4 hours to ensure no moisture was left behind. The Weltmeister fell through as I was away at the time and they had someone with the cash ready. I did buy a DG Hohner 2915 to keep me rolling along.
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blafleur

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Re: replacing valves and tuning
« Reply #26 on: March 12, 2015, 02:08:32 AM »

I also use Evaporust, but for me it did leave a residue, so I just give it a rinse in mineral spirits, it comes off easily before it dries.  It also removes bluing, which bothers some, not me.

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Re: replacing valves and tuning
« Reply #27 on: March 12, 2015, 08:25:27 AM »

Ok thanks Theo!
Does this work on under side of reed the part facing channel in reed block.


No, for that I use a small screwdriver as a scraper.
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Steve_freereeder

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Re: replacing valves and tuning
« Reply #28 on: March 12, 2015, 08:46:59 AM »

I have the valves from CGM and they have no holes so I made my own with a rotary leather punch tool.
I have never bothered with making holes in the valves to fit over the rivet. I think it might be an older Hohner thing. Most other manufacturers seem to just butt the valves up to the rivet head, and fix with glue on the endmost 5 - 10 mm or so, depending on the overall length of the valve, so that's what I do. If it's good enough for Castagnari, it's good enough for me!
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Graham Spencer

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Re: replacing valves and tuning
« Reply #29 on: March 12, 2015, 09:00:10 AM »

I have the valves from CGM and they have no holes so I made my own with a rotary leather punch tool.
I have never bothered with making holes in the valves to fit over the rivet. I think it might be an older Hohner thing. Most other manufacturers seem to just butt the valves up to the rivet head, and fix with glue on the endmost 5 - 10 mm or so, depending on the overall length of the valve, so that's what I do. If it's good enough for Castagnari, it's good enough for me!

Me too, Steve - except for the Castagnari bit, 'cos I've never seen the inside of one!
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Re: replacing valves and tuning
« Reply #30 on: March 12, 2015, 10:03:12 AM »

Me too, Steve - except for the Castagnari bit, 'cos I've never seen the inside of one!
You should try to take a look at some point. The workmanship is superb.
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Graham Spencer

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Re: replacing valves and tuning
« Reply #31 on: March 12, 2015, 11:43:19 AM »

Me too, Steve - except for the Castagnari bit, 'cos I've never seen the inside of one!
You should try to take a look at some point. The workmanship is superb.

I'd have to find somebody who's got one and doesn't mind me taking it to bits!  No chance of that on this island........

Graham
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Among others, Saltarelle Pastourelle II D/G; Hohner 4-stop 1-rows in C & G; assorted Hohners; 3-voice German (?) G/C of uncertain parentage; lovely little Hlavacek 1-row Heligonka; B♭/E♭ Koch. Newly acquired G/C Hohner Viktoria. Also Fender Jazz bass, Telecaster, Stratocaster, Epiphone Sheraton, Charvel-Jackson 00-style acoustic guitar, Danelectro 12-string and other stuff..........

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boxcall

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Re: replacing valves and tuning
« Reply #32 on: March 12, 2015, 08:27:02 PM »

Thanks to all for suggestions and input!!
New questions, so when I was taking things apart on treble mech. there where only three screws one on each end and one in the middle but I noticed there are two extra holes. And on bass side there was only two screws and two extra holes should each hole have a screw? seems to me they should.
air button mech. was fine.

Next: To bush or not to bush (and I don't mean G W Bush we know that was a mistake) the bass side.
and where would I find them as I don't see them on GCM site.
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Re: replacing valves and tuning
« Reply #33 on: March 12, 2015, 10:22:54 PM »

Yes it would be sensible to replace the missing screws.  A good solid base will give the action a positive feel.

You can't buy ready made bushes for bass buttons.  I copy the concertina method of lining the holes with carefully cut strips of woven felt.  The material is sold by piano repair suppliers and in England is called bushing cloth. You can also get it from concertina spares.com.  Ordinary wool felt is not durable enough.
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Re: replacing valves and tuning
« Reply #34 on: March 13, 2015, 01:54:17 AM »

Thanks Theo
I thought the screws should be there, I'm ordering some stuff from CGM I'll see if he has some.
On the bushing does one need to widen the hole?
I should probaly rename this thread to 1040 repair/ rebuild or trying to bring Papa's meldeon back to life.
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Re: replacing valves and tuning
« Reply #35 on: March 13, 2015, 08:44:53 AM »

Yes you need a reamer to widen the hole.  It can be done with a round file but is very tedious that way.
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Theo Gibb - Gateshead UK

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Re: replacing valves and tuning
« Reply #36 on: March 14, 2015, 01:45:05 AM »

Ok thanks Theo and all,
I just ordered some parts so I'll keep you posted on progress.
I"m excited to get this going and to have a melodeon in the key of C when done.
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boxcall

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Re: Refurbishing a Hohner 1040
« Reply #37 on: March 23, 2015, 07:26:31 PM »

I changed the subject since I'll be asking rebuild questions and showing progress now.
I just received my parts so I'm getting to it (:)

Question about cracks in fondo here's one in treble side that was taped over years ago, when it was being repaired maybe. It's directly under wood that makes reed chamber, and on inside where the reeds go only 3/4" is exposed. so how does one handle this? glue or something similar to what was done already / tape. As you can see in photo it's not under the pallets.

give me a couple minutes and I'll post pics.
« Last Edit: March 23, 2015, 07:30:51 PM by boxcall »
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Re: Refurbishing a Hohner 1040
« Reply #38 on: March 23, 2015, 07:32:47 PM »

another treble side
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Hohner 1040 C, Beltuna one row four stop D, O'Byrne Dewitt/ Baldoni bros. D/C#, Paolo soprani "pepperpot" one row D

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Re: Refurbishing a Hohner 1040
« Reply #39 on: March 23, 2015, 07:34:40 PM »

bass side
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