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Author Topic: Refurbishing a Hohner 1040  (Read 11331 times)

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boxcall

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Re: Refurbishing a Hohner 1040
« Reply #40 on: March 23, 2015, 07:39:28 PM »

bass side inside
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boxcall

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Re: Refurbishing a Hohner 1040
« Reply #41 on: March 23, 2015, 07:43:13 PM »

Last one showing some new parts plus I stripped the black paint, still a little bit there so I will seal with poly and if I don't like the results I'll try something else.
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Hohner 1040 C, Beltuna one row four stop D, O'Byrne Dewitt/ Baldoni bros. D/C#, Paolo soprani "pepperpot" one row D

boxcall

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Re: Refurbishing a Hohner 1040
« Reply #42 on: March 23, 2015, 07:46:35 PM »

sorry about all the pics.
last one really, this shows what the box looked like.
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Theo

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Re: Refurbishing a Hohner 1040
« Reply #43 on: March 23, 2015, 07:57:57 PM »

Superglue/cyanoacrylate is good for filling cracks.  The thin grades capillary right into the finest cracks.  Wider cracks can be packed with sodium bicarbonate and then add superglue which reacts immediately to form a hard composite.  If cracks will be visible then fill first with wood dust of a matching colour before adding the superglue.
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Theo Gibb - Gateshead UK

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boxcall

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Re: Refurbishing a Hohner 1040
« Reply #44 on: March 23, 2015, 09:23:03 PM »

Thanks Theo !
I thought about fine wood dust mix with glue but wasn't thinking of superglue, which I will try.
I did not think about baking soda thats interesting.

So when gluing felt leather on to pallets whats the right glue?
can I use the same stuff that I use for the valves. I got a tube of the stuff CGM sells for valves.

And I think I saw on Lesters pics once glue pallets to felt then trim, or could you precut then glue?
And do you over size slightly.

One more question for now what is the material used for padding (limiting)buttons?
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Theo

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Re: Refurbishing a Hohner 1040
« Reply #45 on: March 23, 2015, 10:12:06 PM »

Whatever glue is handy for pallet facing as long as it is not able to soak into the felt - pva, contact cement, etc.  glue pallets onto felt/leather first, then cut up with a sharp blade. Don't try to precut.
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Theo Gibb - Gateshead UK

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boxcall

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Re: Refurbishing a Hohner 1040
« Reply #46 on: March 24, 2015, 07:03:52 PM »

When gluing pallets is any weight need to hold pallets to felt or just press in place?
And is it ok to put pallets close together when gluing so one cut down the middle to separate?
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Lester

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Re: Refurbishing a Hohner 1040
« Reply #47 on: March 24, 2015, 07:09:47 PM »

When gluing pallets is any weight need to hold pallets to felt or just press in place?
And is it ok to put pallets close together when gluing so one cut down the middle to separate?

I don't weight the pallets down but I do butt them together to simplify cutting as you describe.

boxcall

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Re: Refurbishing a Hohner 1040
« Reply #48 on: March 24, 2015, 07:21:42 PM »

Great!
thanks Lester

I ask this earlier
One more question for now what is the material used for padding (limiting)buttons?

I may just poly case but was half thinking maybe staining with a light green or similar to hide any remaining black residue.
I like to give it some color but wasn't sure if I could stain and still get the presswood to show though any thoughts?
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Steve_freereeder

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Re: Refurbishing a Hohner 1040
« Reply #49 on: March 24, 2015, 07:31:57 PM »

When gluing pallets is any weight need to hold pallets to felt or just press in place?
And is it ok to put pallets close together when gluing so one cut down the middle to separate?
I do weight the pallets down on the felt after gluing, but not by much. I use a single thin, even, coat of contact adhesive on the wooden face of the pallet, nothing on the felt, then just press into place. Once all the pallets are glued on to the felt, I cover them all with a sheet of plywood and place a couple of hefty books on top for a couple of hours. That gives sufficient time for the glue to set enough to separate the individual pallets with a sharp knife blade without risking disturbing the felt.

Yes - lay your pallets on the felt with just enough gap to be able to slip the knife blade between, and then one cut down the middle to separate them. 
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boxcall

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Re: Refurbishing a Hohner 1040
« Reply #50 on: March 24, 2015, 08:09:20 PM »

Thanks Steve!
Yes I just got done gluing them with PVA light coat then put a little weight not much.
I don't know if others do this but when gluing wood together I put a little glue on then wait a few minutes, while some of the glue gets soaked into the wood then spread a little more keeping a thin coat. Carpentry talk it's "sizing" the wood.

so any one ever stained one of these?
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boxcall

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Re: Refurbishing a Hohner 1040
« Reply #51 on: March 27, 2015, 02:21:01 AM »

So I got the pallets felted and cut out, went ahead and stained case a light lime green and seal it with poly (you can still see the decoration on the case which is what I wanted). I should be able to pick it out in a line up :D. I cleaned up light rust on metal bits.  put new cloth on bass side. so now I just need to put things back together.

So do most repair pallets to levers using hot glue or Pva with little disks? I had CGM send me disks as thats how it was done originally, any pros and cons?

Also when putting valves on reeds (I Had CGM send me a set for the 1040) whats the proper lenght?
when I just lay them lose on the reed plate butting it up to rivet it sticks pass the tip of reed by a good 1/8" maybe a little more.

When cutting if needed do you cut base or tip, seems like the base has about 5/16" where the layers are attached maybe more I just eyeballed the measurements. If you cut the base then could one just make a little Vcut so it slides past rivet to get better glue contact? I might be over thinking it.
 
In a reed waxing video CGM made, he used a paint brush to wax a simple way to do it I guess.  anyone done this?
I also noticed He only put valve on one side then waxed ( to make cleaning extra wax off with out getting it on valve I guess)
is this a good idea no matter which method?

advise as always greatly appreciated,
Michael


 
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Graham Spencer

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Re: Refurbishing a Hohner 1040
« Reply #52 on: March 27, 2015, 04:19:59 AM »

If you need to trim a valve remove the excess from the tip. I use Charlie's paintbrush method and it works well for me; others may have different experiences. Personally I fit valves to both sides before waxing in, but on the face of it I don't see any reason you shouldn't leave the outside valves until the plates are in place.

Graham
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Among others, Saltarelle Pastourelle II D/G; Hohner 4-stop 1-rows in C & G; assorted Hohners; 3-voice German (?) G/C of uncertain parentage; lovely little Hlavacek 1-row Heligonka; B♭/E♭ Koch. Newly acquired G/C Hohner Viktoria. Also Fender Jazz bass, Telecaster, Stratocaster, Epiphone Sheraton, Charvel-Jackson 00-style acoustic guitar, Danelectro 12-string and other stuff..........

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Lester

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Re: Refurbishing a Hohner 1040
« Reply #53 on: March 27, 2015, 07:09:39 AM »

Also when putting valves on reeds (I Had CGM send me a set for the 1040) whats the proper lenght?
when I just lay them lose on the reed plate butting it up to rivet it sticks pass the tip of reed by a good 1/8" maybe a little more.
Care needs to be taken that the valve does not foul on the wood work of the reed block, I trim the valve much closer than 1/8th inch.

Quote
When cutting if needed do you cut base or tip, seems like the base has about 5/16" where the layers are attached maybe more I just eyeballed the measurements. If you cut the base then could one just make a little Vcut so it slides past rivet to get better glue contact? I might be over thinking it.
I have never considered cutting the base end of the valve. I attach the valves then trim them to size as I find it easier to get them the correct length.

Quote

In a reed waxing video CGM made, he used a paint brush to wax a simple way to do it I guess.  anyone done this?
I also noticed He only put valve on one side then waxed ( to make cleaning extra wax off with out getting it on valve I guess)
is this a good idea no matter which method?
I use a soldering iron, run through a light dimmer to allow me to control the temperature, to do my waxing. Using this method I have no/very little need to clean up afterwards so always fit all the valves first. You need to use great care as any dripped wax can cause greater problems than messed up valves if it is dripped across reed tongues.
[/quote]

Theo

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Re: Refurbishing a Hohner 1040
« Reply #54 on: March 27, 2015, 08:19:47 AM »


In a reed waxing video CGM made, he used a paint brush to wax a simple way to do it I guess.  anyone done this?
I also noticed He only put valve on one side then waxed ( to make cleaning extra wax off with out getting it on valve I guess)
is this a good idea no matter which method?

I think the reason for leaving the top valve off till after waxing is because he doesn't want to get wax on a valve and have to replace it.  But if you drip wax on an uncovered reed you will have more work to do than just replacing a valve!

Safety warning:   CGM shows wax being melted over a gas burner.  Serious fire risk, wax should be melted in a double container with the wax itself sitting in a water bath.   That or an electric wax bath with a thermostat.
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Theo Gibb - Gateshead UK

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Graham Spencer

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Re: Refurbishing a Hohner 1040
« Reply #55 on: March 27, 2015, 08:39:27 AM »


Safety warning:   CGM shows wax being melted over a gas burner.  Serious fire risk, wax should be melted in a double container with the wax itself sitting in a water bath.   That or an electric wax bath with a thermostat.

Absolutely correct. I melt my wax in a briki (a small Greek coffee pot) on a small (9cm diameter) portable electric hotplate with a temperature control.  I shudder to think of the implications of using an open-flame burner in my wooden workshop full of timber, glues, varnishes and wood-dust.......In fact I usually do my waxing either outside if it's warm and dry, or at the kitchen table if not, rather than in the workshop.

Graham



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Among others, Saltarelle Pastourelle II D/G; Hohner 4-stop 1-rows in C & G; assorted Hohners; 3-voice German (?) G/C of uncertain parentage; lovely little Hlavacek 1-row Heligonka; B♭/E♭ Koch. Newly acquired G/C Hohner Viktoria. Also Fender Jazz bass, Telecaster, Stratocaster, Epiphone Sheraton, Charvel-Jackson 00-style acoustic guitar, Danelectro 12-string and other stuff..........

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boxcall

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Re: Refurbishing a Hohner 1040
« Reply #56 on: March 27, 2015, 01:07:19 PM »

Thanks for tips and saftey warning.

So cut valve tip then, just covering hole a little or even to tip of reed?



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Theo

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Re: Refurbishing a Hohner 1040
« Reply #57 on: March 27, 2015, 01:22:37 PM »

Best advice I can give is twofold
1 observe the way it was done originally and use that as a guide(applies to more than just valve trimming)
2 the only really critical thing about valves is to ensure that the underneath one is clear if the reed chamber walls.
3 don't be frightened of making mistakes, they are the best way of learning.

Oh I see that's three!
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Re: Refurbishing a Hohner 1040
« Reply #58 on: March 30, 2015, 04:57:08 AM »

...... I cleaned up light rust on metal bits. 

...rust has a habit of returning...what methods of treatment do folk use to stop it coming back in 6 months time?
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boxcall

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Re: Refurbishing a Hohner 1040
« Reply #59 on: March 30, 2015, 12:01:08 PM »

...... I cleaned up light rust on metal bits. 

...rust has a habit of returning...what methods of treatment do folk use to stop it coming back in 6 months time?

Hi Barry,
I didn't treat with anything, it took 60+ yrs for the light rust to form. So I guess it's not something I'm going to have to deal with. (unless I find the fountain of youth)
Folks here suggest no oils on metal parts.
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