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[Theo]

BTW hats off to both Rees and Theo - and no suggestion that either of you are actually bonkers!
 
AL

Aw, I was hoping for some notoriety.  Rees is definitely bonkers 

[HallelujahAl]

Aw, I was hoping for some notoriety.

Don't worry about that...

[HallelujahAl]

Before and after pics

[Pete Dunk]

Impressive stuff Al. I don't know how I've previously missed this thread or I could have suggest a source of fancy papers for the bellows. I have to agree with Theo regarding the entertainment value of bellows repairs, tedious hardly begins to describe it! (I got a chuckle out of hollow cardboard brick comment though  )

[HallelujahAl]

Impressive stuff Al. I don't know how I've previously missed this thread or I could have suggest a source of fancy papers for the bellows. I have to agree with Theo regarding the entertainment value of bellows repairs, tedious hardly begins to describe it! (I got a chuckle out of hollow cardboard brick comment though   )

Thanks for comment - yes, tedious doesn't quite describe the process does it? Still, am getting onto re-valving and reed tuning and reed-setting - now that really is a long slow job!
AL

[HallelujahAl]

if you use slightly too much glue, or don't clean up completely you end up with a hollow cardboard brick.

Yes, to avoid any of those sort of problems after cleaning the bellows up I placed sheets of grease-proof baking paper in between each fold and then placed the bellows into the bellows press. No probs with folds sticking together etc., Another trick I use to avoid that problem is one that I use when I make concertina bellows, and that is that stickiness is often to be found on the inside of the bellows and not just outside. So I use a paintbrush and coat the inside of the bellows with Johnsons Baby Powder before putting into the bellows press. Every now and then I take the bellows out - give them a good stretch and start knocking the powder out. Works great and no sticking from within. I learnt that trick from Dave Leese - a good guy who has been a mighy fine friend and teacher to me in recent years.
AL

[Lars]

I'm glad to see that the box is getting back into business! Better than collecting dust around my place:)

Sadly, the youtube video does not show just HOW deep those basses are!

[HallelujahAl]

Sadly, the youtube video does not show just HOW deep those basses are!

No you're right about that - having said that I've still got some air leaking a little around where the end frame fits onto the bellows which is affecting the compression. Once I've sorted that problem out I'll try and give a better demonstration. BTW the air prob is of my own making as I still haven't put new gasket seals around both ends of the gonka yet  

But thanks for everything Lars! It's coming along nicely.

One last pic of the gonka before I start work on the endframes - sanding and wiring down the current rather scrappy finish and then a whole load of French Polishing - this Gonka has never been loved so much!
AL

[Gerard374]

Hai Al,

Thanks for posting all this stuff about the restauration of your Heligonka. I am reading it with lots of interest. That 'new' bellow looks very nice, especially when you see how it looks before.

[HallelujahAl]

Thanks Gerard - things are coming along nicely. One of the smaller reeds that accompany the big helikon reeds was missing from the  reed block - so Johann Pascher has very kindly offered to make me a replacement. So the reed-block is currently on its way to Austria for a minor operation!

Also, am now
1: preparing the woodwork for French Polishing
2: re-valving the treble end and touch-tuning the odd reed where necessary


Don't suppose anyone has any ideas on

A: how I might be able to return the old grill to its former glory? Would love to have the grill all nice and shiny chrome looking again. Have used most metal polish known to man, but it's still looking tatty

B: know where I may be able to source some replace cabin-hook type catches that connect the bellows-frames to the gonka's endframes? Again nice shiny chrome would be the order of the day.

Thanks
AL

[Lester]

Don't suppose anyone has any ideas on

A: how I might be able to return the old grill to its former glory? Would love to have the grill all nice and shiny chrome looking again. Have used most metal polish known to man, but it's still looking tatty

Thanks
AL

These people should be able to help http://www.ashfordchroming.com/

[HallelujahAl]

Thanks Lester - will follow it up.
AL

[Theo]

Al, you might want to consider nickel plating rather than chrome.   The original would almost certainly have been nickel plated.  Nickel plate has a warmer tone than chrome, which has a slightly cool blue shade and to my eye loos too brash on an old instrument.   A good chrome shop will be able to do nickel too.

[HallelujahAl]

Thanks for this advice Theo - you're right it's almost certainly nickel rather than chrome.
AL

[Ziachmusi/Louise]

Keep up the great work Al.
Does this box have a unisonic key on the inside row?

Louise

[HallelujahAl]

Keep up the great work Al.
Does this box have a unisonic key on the inside row?

Louise

No it doesn't which surprised me actually as for some reason I thought it might have. The box is set out exactly as a standard C/F two row box. Thanks for your encouragement and help.AL

[HallelujahAl]

Well, there's been a bit of lull on this due
1. to an an incredibly hectic time recently
2. waiting for Johann Pascher to make and fit a new helikon reed to the old reed-block

Hurrah! Wait is over  - the new reed arrived in the post today. Johann kindly hasn't charged a bean - what a guy!
So now I'm back on with the project. Pics of the new reed and valve attached. I've fitted the reed back into place and it sounds great!
But am now going to take all the reeds out again from the treble blocks to finish off tuning and re-valving. Also the body of the gonka is due to receive a few final coats of finest wire wool before I start thinking about applying French Polish. What do you think about the relative merits of French Polish over say, standard laquer or stain & varnish?
AL

[IanD]

Well, there's been a bit of lull on this due
1. to an an incredibly hectic time recently
2. waiting for Johann Pascher to make and fit a new helikon reed to the old reed-block

Hurrah! Wait is over  - the new reed arrived in the post today. Johann kindly hasn't charged a bean - what a guy!
So now I'm back on with the project. Pics of the new reed and valve attached. I've fitted the reed back into place and it sounds great!
But am now going to take all the reeds out again from the treble blocks to finish off tuning and re-valving. Also the body of the gonka is due to receive a few final coats of finest wire wool before I start thinking about applying French Polish. What do you think about the relative merits of French Polish over say, standard laquer or stain & varnish?
AL

A cabinetmaker friend of mine recommended Junckers Rustic Oil which gives a natural-looking but durable finish, can be applied by hand, and can easily be refinished in the future -- I've used it on a couple of things including a dining table, I think it would work very well on a melodeon.

In fact I was considering stripping off all the lacquer from my Oakwood (because it's worn through in several places) and using this to refinish it, but decided it was just too much effort (mainly in getting the existing lacquer off).

Ian

[rees]

I use Liberon Finishing Oil. Easy to apply and looks great.

[HallelujahAl]

I use Liberon Finishing Oil. Easy to apply and looks great.

How do you apply it? With a traditional rubber or a brush? And do you need to wire down between coats?
AL