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[malcolmbebb]

I have a late 1930s Hohner box in bits at the moment. It's a two row, with a rounded front similar in shape to an Erica (but the rounded front is removable), in a nice cherry red and with a "Christmas tree" grille.
I don't think it has a model name.

I am nearly ready to re-face the pallets, but it seems I'll need to remove the button arms to get access when refitting, to get the glue gun in, and will need to replace the pivot pins at the bottom. I had made notes of the suggested replacements but can't find them. Would appreciate a reminder!

I'd also like to raise the bass buttons up a fair way, with bigger tops, and step them more. Theo mentioned using Italian pistons, with screw in buttons, in a very old post I found. This sounds like it might work, Charlie probably has some buttons I could use, but I didn't see the pistons on his site and don't know where to source them. Dia is 10mm. Any thoughts or suggestions?

Cheers,
Malcolm

[Lester]

I am nearly ready to re-face the pallets, but it seems I'll need to remove the button arms to get access when refitting, to get the glue gun in, and will need to replace the pivot pins at the bottom. I had made notes of the suggested replacements but can't find them. Would appreciate a reminder!

I think I use THESE but check the required diameter as they also do 20mm

[Malcolm Clapp]

I have a black one like this. Somewhere I read these described as a "streamlined" model.

Or we could perhaps call them a "pre-Erica" ??  (Runs and hides under table....)

[Steve_freereeder]

I am nearly ready to re-face the pallets, but it seems I'll need to remove the button arms to get access when refitting, to get the glue gun in....

A couple of suggestions:

1. It depends partly on the size/slenderness of your glue gun nozzle, but it may well be perfectly possible to manoeuvre the nozzle in between the lever arms to deposit a blob of glue in the required place. The lever arms are usually flexible enough to shift out of the way. I've refaced the pallets on a few Hohners in this way and I've never needed to remove the pivot pins yet. A small slip of card is useful to catch the inevitable strings of glue when you withdraw the nozzle.

2. Alternatively, you could dispense with the hot-melt glue altogether and use the 'traditional' method of securing the pallets to the arms with a small disk of fabric (linen) or leather attached with (non-traditional) PVA glue. This is the method advocated by Martyn White, one of our respected Hohner restorers.

Martyn's advice is to use a piece of fine linen (an old hankie is good) and soak it in some dilute PVA (20% glue, 80% water), then hang it up vertically like washing on a clothes line until dry. The PVA stiffens the fabric somewhat and allows you cut or punch out some disks. Then use ordinary craft PVA glue (wood-working glue is too strong) to secure the disk over the pallet arm and the upper wooden surface of the pallet. Don't put glue in the pallet slot; it makes it near impossible to remove the pallet in the future without destroying it.

Hope this helps...

[triskel]

Somewhere I read these described as a "streamlined" model.

That might have been me , but streamlining was "all the rage" in the 1930s for cars, trains and planes, etc., and started to be applied to accordions in the US in 1938, and Europe in 1939.

Or we could perhaps call them a "pre-Erica" ??  (Runs and hides under table....)

Argggh! Let's not go there! 

Though it kind-of is, in that they had the same No. 1600 model number that Hohner later used for the Erica and Corso...

[Kimric Smythe]

I can't see any advantage to using a glue gun, I agree with the use of PVA and a dot of leather on top.

You can raise the buttons  couple of MM by adjusting the linkage at the elbow to some degree.

[malcolmbebb]

Thanks to all.
 Tidying up tonight I rediscovered a set of punches, and some thickish cotton tape, so tradition might win. A PVA-d strip is drying out as I type.

The name "pre-Erica" did cross my mind but I studiously avoided it.
And from Triskel's remarks maybe early forties rather than late 30s.

Decided to avoid thinking about the buttons until I have the pallets back on. Go from there.

[tom f]

I've just finished doing this on the bass end of an Erika and was surprised how little leeway there is in positioning the pallets, particularly the triangular ones over the chords.  I've found it useful to position the pallets first then view them from the bellows end against sunlight or a strong lamp to see if there are any chinks of light showing before applying the glue or linen patch.

[Lester]

Tidying up tonight I rediscovered a set of punches, and some thickish cotton tape, so tradition might win. A PVA-d strip is drying out as I type.

Make sure the patch fully fills the cutout in the lever. I have had more than one box in the workshop with intermittent bass problems which were eventually traced to the pallets being able to slide up and down the lever as the patch was fixed to the pallet but not to lever. This is why I prefer hot glue. As some one said above it is possible to hot glue with the bass mech fully in place just needs some care.

[Lester]

I've just finished doing this on the bass end of an Erika and was surprised how little leeway there is in positioning the pallets, particularly the triangular ones over the chords.  I've found it useful to position the pallets first then view them from the bellows end against sunlight or a strong lamp to see if there are any chinks of light showing before applying the glue or linen patch.

Spot on! By far the best way of detecting pallet leaks. Be sure to look at the pallet holes from side ways on as well.

[malcolmbebb]

Cheers Lester.

[baz parkes]

(Runs and hides under table....)

Argggh! Let's not go there! 
[/quote]

No...let's....I've not played a good game of hide and seek for ages....

[malcolmbebb]

Then use ordinary craft PVA glue (wood-working glue is too strong) to secure the disk over the pallet arm and the upper wooden surface of the pallet. Don't put glue in the pallet slot; it makes it near impossible to remove the pallet in the future without destroying it.

I had a look an a contemporary treble pallet on another box and it's quite clear that originally the glue - a variant of pearl glue - was applied before the disc, and fairly liberally. Looks like the arm was positioned first, then the glue, then the cloth disc plonked on top. Pallets held like this seem to both last well, and be easily removed.
I have some pearl glue to hand. If I've got it, and am happy using it, is there any advantage to PVA?

@Baz. Behave. You've only just got it. Don't break it straight away!

[Steve_freereeder]

I had a look an a contemporary treble pallet on another box and it's quite clear that originally the glue - a variant of pearl glue - was applied before the disc, and fairly liberally. Looks like the arm was positioned first, then the glue, then the cloth disc plonked on top. Pallets held like this seem to both last well, and be easily removed.
I have some pearl glue to hand. If I've got it, and am happy using it, is there any advantage to PVA?

I'm all for making things undo-able to help both myself and folks in the future should any subsequent repair or renovation be required. So - if you have the pearl glue available, I would say use it in preference to PVA. It will do the job, and can be removed/undone when necessary using a wad of cotton wool dampened with hot water to soften the glue.

Use the minimum amount of glue needed to secure the pallet and disk.