Topic: questions about the Castagnari Max (Read 24576 times)

mselic · « **Reply #80 on:** June 16, 2016, 11:14:31 PM »

Just to recap, I recently found a used Castagnari Max in D being sold "locally" (within the Maritime provinces) for a very good price, so I decided that I couldn't pass up the opportunity and went for it. The box arrived today and I've had a chance to play it for a few hours, as well as open it up and poke around inside.

It's a fantastic, little, compact box. I'd say it's roughly the same size as my Tommy, only lighter, and the button spacing is wider. It plays and sounds great. I'm not entirely sure where this notion of it sounding "polite" comes from; it certainly has punch and bark as far as I'm concerned! The button action is light and fast. The two middle reeds are tuned almost completely dry; I can't detect a difference in pitch between the two reeds and only a very slow "beat" detectable as far as tremolo goes; definitely drier than the Tommy.

There are a couple of notes, on the draw, that don't respond as quickly as the others. There is an audible sound of air passing before the note sounds, and a little bit of resistance. I imagine there is scope for adjustment and improvement here? As the box was built in '99, it's quite possible it has never seen a tune-up. For the price I paid, I figure even if it visits a box tech to get a general looking over, it's worth it.

The air button: they definitely put it in the wrong spot!

Actually, as far as playing on the treble side goes, the air button is not a problem for me. The challenges arise when I choose to play the bass side...I haven't quite figured that out yet. I'll be honest in saying that I've already opened up the bass box to look around and see if moving the mechanism is possible. There is at least one member on here who told me they successfully moved the button to it's "correct" spot, so it's an option I'm looking into. The box is otherwise perfect, and I'm really happy with it. A bit of tweaking and it will likely take up residence as my main box!

I've included a photo.

forrest · « **Reply #81 on:** June 17, 2016, 05:15:59 AM »

I have read many a post concerning the pros and cons of the controversial air button. Living where I do, all things melodeonistic are usually brought in from far and exotic places, so my chances of seeing a real Castagnari Max in person would be as rare as hen's teeth. Could you please oblige us with a photo or two to illuminate the air button situation?
Congratulations on finding your dream box, and hope to hear it demonstrated on a TotM sometime soon!

deltasalmon · « **Reply #82 on:** June 17, 2016, 11:33:12 AM »

Quote from: forrest on June 17, 2016, 05:15:59 AM

Could you please oblige us with a photo or two to illuminate the air button situation?

http://melodeonminutes.blogspot.com/2011/02/in-praise-of-max.html

melodeon · « **Reply #83 on:** June 17, 2016, 02:39:45 PM »

Congrats on the box, it is identical to my first Castagnari Melodeon.

Gold Pallets, Smaller size, and stop knobs of black and gold and metal script name plate.

My current MAX is larger, black pallets with a maple strip, thinner dome brass only stop knobs, thinner script wood name plate.

My current "D" box made in 2014

5 7/8ths inches x 10 1/4 inches

150 mm X 260 mm

Weight is 6 pounds 4 ounces

Have you opened yours up and looked at the reed blocks. ? Are there "wings" where there are a couple reeds laying flat ?

From the Japanese web site..

Yours is similar to the one on the left, mine current box is similar to the one on the right:

http://blog-imgs-47.fc2.com/c/a/s/castagnari/CA390480.jpg

Here's another photo with a "MAX" that predates the "C" bellows and metal scripts.. "CASTAGNARI" in stenciled paint:

http://blog-imgs-38.fc2.com/c/a/s/castagnari/P1040352.jpg

Here's a couple clips of the "diamond" MAX being played.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAx5Z5Ggyr0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6XrW-3-9hpo

Here's a couple internal fotos of the "MAX" bass button and mechanism:

http://blog-imgs-31.fc2.com/c/a/s/castagnari/CA390187.jpg
http://blog-imgs-31.fc2.com/c/a/s/castagnari/CA390188.jpg
http://blog-imgs-31.fc2.com/c/a/s/castagnari/CA390184.jpg

And a small collection of boxes by a Japanese player.. I would suggest, they are serious about the box !

http://blog-imgs-37.fc2.com/c/a/s/castagnari/CA390504.jpg

hickory-wind · « **Reply #84 on:** June 17, 2016, 03:15:45 PM »

To aid in this discussion I am attaching some photos of a 2 year old box next to a 35 year old box. The older one is smaller and has a slightly more compact keyboard (pic 3) although buttons are slightly larger diameter.

hickory-wind · « **Reply #85 on:** June 17, 2016, 03:31:19 PM »

The older one has the more traditional vertical, removable reedblocks.
Stops are arranged M+ M L H (M+ close to chest).

The newer one has the High reeds mounted flat but attached to the vertical Low reedblock so it comes out as a unit.
Stops are arranged H L M M+ (H close to chest).

They are both fine compact instruments that sound great. The older one is slightly more pleasurable to play due to the keyboard. As many here have said, the air button is awkward but now after many hours of play I don't think about it and it works fine.

Winston Smith · « **Reply #86 on:** June 17, 2016, 03:58:14 PM »

http://blog-imgs-31.fc2.com/c/a/s/castagnari/CA390188.jpg

Well, there's a turn-up for the books!
An, undoubtedly expensive and supposedly high quality, instrument with cross head (possibly Pozidrive and needlessly countersunk) screws, pieces of scrap wood as corner reinforcement, with excess glue squeezing out of the joints, not to mention the woodstain splashed about willy-nilly on the inside where it cannot usually be seen, or the finger-ripping screw point protruding through the side! Whatever next?
Perhaps I should stick with my "firewood" boxes, where I know to tread carefully once I'm inside?

Lester · « **Reply #87 on:** June 17, 2016, 04:08:45 PM »

Quote from: Edward Jennings on June 17, 2016, 03:58:14 PM

http://blog-imgs-31.fc2.com/c/a/s/castagnari/CA390188.jpg

Well, there's a turn-up for the books!
An, undoubtedly expensive and supposedly high quality, instrument with cross head (possibly Pozidrive and needlessly countersunk) screws, pieces of scrap wood as corner reinforcement, with excess glue squeezing out of the joints, not to mention the woodstain splashed about willy-nilly on the inside where it cannot usually be seen, or the finger-ripping screw point protruding through the side! Whatever next?
Perhaps I should stick with my "firewood" boxes, where I know to tread carefully once I'm inside?

At least the joints are mitred not butted

Steve_freereeder · « **Reply #88 on:** June 17, 2016, 05:56:35 PM »

Quote from: mselic on June 16, 2016, 11:14:31 PM

Just to recap, I recently found a used Castagnari Max in D being sold "locally" (within the Maritime provinces) for a very good price, so I decided that I couldn't pass up the opportunity and went for it. The box arrived today and I've had a chance to play it for a few hours, as well as open it up and poke around inside.

It's a fantastic, little, compact box. I'd say it's roughly the same size as my Tommy, only lighter, and the button spacing is wider. It plays and sounds great. I'm not entirely sure where this notion of it sounding "polite" comes from; it certainly has punch and bark as far as I'm concerned! The button action is light and fast. ...

Congratulations - well found!

Quote

There are a couple of notes, on the draw, that don't respond as quickly as the others. There is an audible sound of air passing before the note sounds, and a little bit of resistance. I imagine there is scope for adjustment and improvement here?

Yes - it sounds like the reed gap needs adjusting, or possibly a valve has come adrift. A bit of reed work should do wonders for the response.

Quote

The air button: they definitely put it in the wrong spot! Actually, as far as playing on the treble side goes, the air button is not a problem for me. The challenges arise when I choose to play the bass side...I haven't quite figured that out yet. I'll be honest in saying that I've already opened up the bass box to look around and see if moving the mechanism is possible. There is at least one member on here who told me they successfully moved the button to it's "correct" spot, so it's an option I'm looking into. The box is otherwise perfect, and I'm really happy with it. A bit of tweaking and it will likely take up residence as my main box!

As I mentioned in an earlier post in this thread, I think it really is worth taking the time to develop an appropriate LH shape/position, especially for the thumb; it's different from that needed for just about any other box.

I did once have a Max on which a previous owner had modified the air button to a Hohner 'flick-down' type, by reshaping and spot-welding an additional steel rod on to the air button lever arm. Yes - it worked alright until the spot welds failed and then it was useless.

Also, with a one-row four-stop box, you often need to 'feather' the air button fractionally whilst playing. The Hohner type flicky button is less amenable to this than the Castagnari button-shapped button or a wooden wedge-shaped button.

If you can get used to the air-button, you will save yourself a lot of hassle trying to find someone to do you a good and reliable conversion job.

melodeon · « **Reply #89 on:** June 17, 2016, 06:21:02 PM »

"Well, there's a turn-up for the books!
An, undoubtedly expensive and supposedly high quality, instrument with cross head (possibly Pozidrive and needlessly countersunk) screws, pieces of scrap wood as corner reinforcement, with excess glue squeezing out of the joints, not to mention the woodstain splashed about willy-nilly on the inside where it cannot usually be seen, or the finger-ripping screw point protruding through the side! Whatever next?
Perhaps I should stick with my "firewood" boxes, where I know to tread carefully once I'm inside"

There was a period when Castagnari was at a low ebb in quality, I had a POS Mory from that period.

I can attest that the quality of workmanship on the current "MAX" is top notch. Meticulously crafted.

malcolmbebb · « **Reply #90 on:** June 17, 2016, 07:16:48 PM »

Explain to me about the cross-head screws. I'm lost there.

Lester · « **Reply #91 on:** June 17, 2016, 07:21:25 PM »

Quote from: malcolmbebb on June 17, 2016, 07:16:48 PM

Explain to me about the cross-head screws. I'm lost there.

Even bigger sin than butt joints

malcolmbebb · « **Reply #92 on:** June 17, 2016, 07:24:16 PM »

Bit like socks in sandals, then. But why?

melodeon · « **Reply #93 on:** June 17, 2016, 07:42:06 PM »

"Even bigger sin than butt joints

"

"Bit like socks in sandals, then. But why? "

If you have to ask : )

Worse yet,
playing a butt jointed accordion assembled with Phillips (reed and prince, pozidrive) screws while wearing sandals and socks.

Theo · « **Reply #94 on:** June 17, 2016, 07:59:22 PM »

I see nothing wrong with cross head* screws on a modern box, but they have no place on classic pre-war old boxes.

* unless they are the Chinese ones that appear to be made of metal with the shear strength of Cheddar cheese.

Lester · « **Reply #95 on:** June 17, 2016, 08:02:20 PM »

Quote from: Theo on June 17, 2016, 07:59:22 PM

I see nothing wrong with cross head* screws on a modern box, but they have no place on classic pre-war old boxes.

* unless they are the Chinese ones that appear to be made of metal with the shear strength of Cheddar cheese.

I've even worked on a box, a Serafini I think, that used Torx screws. I now have a set of Torx drivers

malcolmbebb · « **Reply #96 on:** June 17, 2016, 08:12:18 PM »

Quote from: Theo on June 17, 2016, 07:59:22 PM

I see nothing wrong with cross head* screws on a modern box, but they have no place on classic pre-war old boxes.

* unless they are the Chinese ones that appear to be made of metal with the shear strength of Cheddar cheese.

That makes sense. My Giordy has Pozis. Rather that than slotted screws with slot worn and burred.

melodeon · « **Reply #97 on:** June 17, 2016, 08:56:47 PM »

"see nothing wrong with cross head* screws on a modern box, but they have no place on classic pre-war old boxes."

I believe not invented until 1939.

"That makes sense. My Giordy has Pozis. Rather that than slotted screws with slot worn and burred."

If you must, makes more sense than the cross head family of screws.

Anyone can use a "cross head" screwdriver..

"it takes a craftsman to properly use a slot head screwdriver.."
That is a slightly paraphrased quote from a rather famous American craftsman/artist.

"I've even worked on a box, a Serafini I think, that used Torx screws. I now have a set of Torx drivers

"

Butt, only if you must.

Winston Smith · « **Reply #98 on:** June 17, 2016, 09:11:28 PM »

"Butt, only if you must."

Very good, well said!

Roger Howard · « **Reply #99 on:** June 17, 2016, 09:37:10 PM »

[/quote]

I've even worked on a box, a Serafini I think, that used Torx screws. I now have a set of Torx drivers

[/quote]

That would be correct. I had to buy a set when my Serafini needed a tweak.

Roger

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Author Topic: questions about the Castagnari Max (Read 24576 times)