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Author Topic: First attempt at box fettling  (Read 3468 times)

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John MacKenzie (Cugiok)

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Re: First attempt at box fettling
« Reply #80 on: November 15, 2017, 09:15:17 PM »

Avoided that one, due reading about it on Melnet.
I am stuck now, waiting for my new bellows back from Igor. Anybody know how long he usually takes?
I expect I'll discover lots of air leaks in my newly refurbed pallets, when I fit them

Sir John
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Re: First attempt at box fettling
« Reply #81 on: November 15, 2017, 09:42:21 PM »

Avoided that one, due reading about it on Melnet.
I am stuck now, waiting for my new bellows back from Igor. Anybody know how long he usually takes?
I expect I'll discover lots of air leaks in my newly refurbed pallets, when I fit them

Sir John

Most I've waited was two weeks
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John MacKenzie (Cugiok)

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Re: First attempt at box fettling
« Reply #82 on: January 13, 2018, 03:48:32 PM »

I'm now onto a second box, and need some of the tiny little screws that fasten the mechanism to the fondo. I looked for a thread where they were mentioned, that I vaguely remember reading, but can't find it. Can somebody help?
I'm also tackling retaping for the first time, and luckily the old tape is coming off quite easily, but the corners are lightly rusted in places. Have attacked them with my scratch pen, but wondered if anyone had any tips on dealing with this problem. Also, what do I glue the new tape on with?
Sir John
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: Liliputs C/F, D/G : Hohner Club Modell 1. Bb/Eb, de-clubbed : Early Hohner A/D : Hohner Club II (De-clubbed) D/G : Hagstrom G/C: Hohner Corona IIIR G/C/F :Preciosa Bb/Eb. Hohner 384 1930's Varnished wood G/C

tirpous

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Re: First attempt at box fettling
« Reply #83 on: January 13, 2018, 04:10:08 PM »

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John MacKenzie (Cugiok)

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Re: First attempt at box fettling
« Reply #84 on: January 13, 2018, 04:12:36 PM »

No, I found that already thanks. I'm sure the one I'm trying to find mentioned getting them from a modelling/hobbies shop.

SJ
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Diarrhoea !



: Liliputs C/F, D/G : Hohner Club Modell 1. Bb/Eb, de-clubbed : Early Hohner A/D : Hohner Club II (De-clubbed) D/G : Hagstrom G/C: Hohner Corona IIIR G/C/F :Preciosa Bb/Eb. Hohner 384 1930's Varnished wood G/C

Edward Jennings

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Re: First attempt at box fettling
« Reply #85 on: January 13, 2018, 04:14:39 PM »

It's only recently that I've ever bothered with the (often black with age!) corners on bellows. But when I did, I found that the fingernail polisher's fine abrasive sponge blocks were ideal. If you hold them with the ends between finger and thumb, they bend a bit an therefore miss the bellows tape/fabric etc. Very easy but time taking.

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havaLaff

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Re: First attempt at box fettling
« Reply #86 on: January 13, 2018, 04:35:00 PM »

I'm also tackling retaping for the first time, and luckily the old tape is coming off quite easily, but the corners are lightly rusted in places. Have attacked them with my scratch pen, but wondered if anyone had any tips on dealing with this problem. Also, what do I glue the new tape on with?

I hate tarnished bellows corners, so the first I do when I buy a box, is strip off the old tape. I rub the metal corners using a Scotch Pad. They clean up a nice brass colour. Time consuming but worth the final result.  Retaping-I found PVA glue a lot cleaner and easier than Hide glue.
« Last Edit: January 13, 2018, 04:40:38 PM by havaLaff »
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Lester

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Re: First attempt at box fettling
« Reply #87 on: January 13, 2018, 04:38:28 PM »

I'm now onto a second box, and need some of the tiny little screws that fasten the mechanism to the fondo. I looked for a thread where they were mentioned, that I vaguely remember reading, but can't find it. Can somebody help?
I'm also tackling retaping for the first time, and luckily the old tape is coming off quite easily, but the corners are lightly rusted in places. Have attacked them with my scratch pen, but wondered if anyone had any tips on dealing with this problem. Also, what do I glue the new tape on with?
Sir John

I use these people for small screws  http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/fixings.htm

To remove light rust I use this    https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/abrasive-polishing-block-hx04e

To stick on bellows tape I use     http://www.axminster.co.uk/polyten-pva-glue-ax22032
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RogerT

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Re: First attempt at box fettling
« Reply #88 on: January 14, 2018, 01:44:41 PM »

Someone on here suggested tacky PVA for bellows taps. Ordinary PVA is a bit of a pain because the tape keeps coming up in places while the glue is wet. I clamp the folds shut with grease-proof strips to prevent the folds sticking together. But having tacky glue in the first place is quite nice..So I use this stuff...and it's cheap.
https://www.therange.co.uk/hobbies-and-crafts/craft-supplies/glues-and-tapes/craft-glue/anita-s-tacky-pva-glue?gclid=Cj0KCQiAnOzSBRDGARIsAL-mUB24uKOC_NpAa_h_V1KofWLkw3EgiotRKP7FnDrXZbOmYYodH8waMEgaAh5iEALw_wcB

As it happens I also spotted this adhesive cork tape the other day in The Range....which might be useful.
https://www.powertoolsdirect.com/shurtape-duck-real-cork-board-tape-47mm-x-4-5m?gclid=Cj0KCQiAnOzSBRDGARIsAL-mUB36rVWvYuH7akj-KJ40Qer686eYiwY_FzxRPw2SkIytUuFHfJiBa3YaAnf-EALw_wcB

Theo

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Re: First attempt at box fettling
« Reply #89 on: January 14, 2018, 01:48:45 PM »

Someone on here suggested tacky PVA for bellows taps. Ordinary PVA is a bit of a pain because the tape keeps coming up in places while the glue is wet. I clamp the folds shut with grease-proof strips to prevent the folds sticking together. But having tacky glue in the first place is quite nice..So I use this stuff...and it's cheap.
https://www.therange.co.uk/hobbies-and-crafts/craft-supplies/glues-and-tapes/craft-glue/anita-s-tacky-pva-glue?gclid=Cj0KCQiAnOzSBRDGARIsAL-mUB24uKOC_NpAa_h_V1KofWLkw3EgiotRKP7FnDrXZbOmYYodH8waMEgaAh5iEALw_wcB


Also says it remains flexible when dry.   I've tried Polyten as suggested by Lester, and other pva designed for woodwork and they can get quite hard.
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John MacKenzie (Cugiok)

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Re: First attempt at box fettling
« Reply #90 on: January 14, 2018, 02:35:33 PM »

Oh I thought, that adhesive cork could be very useful. So I ordered some, and a new glue gun and some glue sticks as well. Very reasonable prices, came in at about £16, then after I elected to check out using Paypal, they hit me with a carriage charge in excess of £18. So I won't be getting those bits and pieces. We get hit so hard for carriage charges living up here in the north of Scotland,
Thanks for the tips though, keep them coming. The next thing I need is another 2 hands, so that I can hold the bass pallet assembly while I try to screw it back in place. Damned thing came adrift when I wasn't looking.
SJ
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: Liliputs C/F, D/G : Hohner Club Modell 1. Bb/Eb, de-clubbed : Early Hohner A/D : Hohner Club II (De-clubbed) D/G : Hagstrom G/C: Hohner Corona IIIR G/C/F :Preciosa Bb/Eb. Hohner 384 1930's Varnished wood G/C

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Re: First attempt at box fettling
« Reply #91 on: January 14, 2018, 02:52:59 PM »

Thanks for the tips though, keep them coming. The next thing I need is another 2 hands, so that I can hold the bass pallet assembly while I try to screw it back in place. Damned thing came adrift when I wasn't looking.
SJ

Unhook the springs to release the tension, refit the mechanism, rehook the springs.
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John MacKenzie (Cugiok)

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Re: First attempt at box fettling
« Reply #92 on: January 14, 2018, 04:19:47 PM »

Putting the springs back is a struggle.

SJ
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: Liliputs C/F, D/G : Hohner Club Modell 1. Bb/Eb, de-clubbed : Early Hohner A/D : Hohner Club II (De-clubbed) D/G : Hagstrom G/C: Hohner Corona IIIR G/C/F :Preciosa Bb/Eb. Hohner 384 1930's Varnished wood G/C

Theo

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Re: First attempt at box fettling
« Reply #93 on: January 14, 2018, 04:31:07 PM »

Putting the springs back is a struggle.

SJ

Not as much as trying to get the screws in while you compress the springs.  You also risk the screw tearing out of the wood and enlarging the hole.

Two simple tools for hooking/unhooking springs - 1 a small screwdriver with a notch in the end is essential for getting the free edn of springs back in position, 2 a small hook which can be made from stiff wire is useful for lifting the free end of the spring so you can get the notched tool into position,  This is especially useful with new springs.

BTW I have some screws from Carini that work as replacements for fixing Hohner mechs.  They are a slightly tight fit in the fixing hole but they work well.  I'm sure that Charlie Marshall will have something, but let me know if you can't find any and I'll send you some.
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Re: First attempt at box fettling
« Reply #94 on: January 14, 2018, 04:39:48 PM »

Putting the springs back is a struggle.

SJ

All of life is a struggle, Grasshopper
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John MacKenzie (Cugiok)

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Re: First attempt at box fettling
« Reply #95 on: January 15, 2018, 05:33:15 PM »

New reed blocks arrived today, without gaskets. Ordered a couple of sheets of Olivisc or whatever it's called from Charlie. How easy is it to trim, round the holes in the block, for fitting?

Sir John
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Diarrhoea !



: Liliputs C/F, D/G : Hohner Club Modell 1. Bb/Eb, de-clubbed : Early Hohner A/D : Hohner Club II (De-clubbed) D/G : Hagstrom G/C: Hohner Corona IIIR G/C/F :Preciosa Bb/Eb. Hohner 384 1930's Varnished wood G/C

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Re: First attempt at box fettling
« Reply #96 on: January 15, 2018, 05:39:16 PM »

New reed blocks arrived today, without gaskets. Ordered a couple of sheets of Olivisc or whatever it's called from Charlie. How easy is it to trim, round the holes in the block, for fitting?

Sir John

For no very good reason when I do this job I fit the Olivisc to the fondo. I just fit a single piece to cover the whole mating area then, after feeling for the holes with a finger, stab them with a scalpel then run it round the hole.
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Theo

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Re: First attempt at box fettling
« Reply #97 on: January 15, 2018, 05:50:24 PM »

Yes,  and always start with a new blade.
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Re: First attempt at box fettling
« Reply #98 on: January 15, 2018, 05:51:46 PM »

Yes,  and always start with a new blade.

Indeed
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Rob2Hook

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Re: First attempt at box fettling
« Reply #99 on: January 15, 2018, 10:47:12 PM »

Scalpel blades (even new ones) can be sharpened/honed with an arkansas stone to great effect.  They will cut down to the bone without your feeling a thing - believe me!  If done regularly i.e. before the blade gets notched, a blade will last almost indefinitely.  I used to have to cut and trim paper and card, so the scalpel was wiped with the stone after every couple of cuts.

Rob.
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