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Author Topic: Igor bellows  (Read 2235 times)

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John MacKenzie (Cugiok)

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Igor bellows
« on: December 30, 2017, 09:03:30 PM »

FInished phase one. Fairly airtight. Now for the tuning

SJ
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mr hohner

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Re: Igor bellows
« Reply #1 on: December 31, 2017, 04:12:11 AM »

Fantastic work sir!!!  :||: :||: :||:
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Re: Igor bellows
« Reply #2 on: December 31, 2017, 08:16:31 AM »

...Fairly airtight...

Only fairly airtight? Do you know the sources of your leaks? If you have new bellows, any leaks are either (a) going to be around the gaskets - try gently tightening the screws a little more; or (b) from the pallets - check each one for seating and seal.

A leaky gasket can often be found by holding the bellows close to a damp cheek and pushing the bellows gently. You should be able to feel a cool stream of air from any leaking point.

Similarly you might be able to detect a leaky pallet using the same method. Also, check visually for any obvious leak caused by the pallets not being aligned and overlapping the tone holes. A bright LED torch shone inside the bellows in a darkened room might show a sliver of light from a misaligned pallet. Reposition as necessary.

If that all seems OK then check the seating of each pallet using a thin tapered strip cut from a Rizla cigarette paper.

Insert the fag paper strip under each pallet in turn, using it a sort of feeler gauge. Allow the lever arm spring to trap the fag paper and try pulling it out. Test both sides and both ends of each pallet in turn. The spring pressure should 'grab' the fag paper at each test position. If it slides out easily, you know there will be a leak at that side/end. Do each pallet in turn, treble and bass sides.

If you find a leak, (and assuming the pallet facing material is in good condition) you will need to reset the pallet, either by re-glueing the pallet on the lever arm, or if the pallets are screwed onto the lever arm, by using finger and thumb pressure to very gently bend the pallet towards the leak.
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Lester

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Re: Igor bellows
« Reply #3 on: December 31, 2017, 08:45:06 AM »

Only fairly airtight? Do you know the sources of your leaks? If you have new bellows, any leaks are either (a) going to be around the gaskets - try gently tightening the screws a little more; or (b) from the pallets - check each one for seating and seal. <snip>

Or (c), one I find commonly on old Hohners, the fondos being no longer airtight where they meet the casework. A bead of PVA around the joint usually fixes this.

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Re: Igor bellows
« Reply #4 on: December 31, 2017, 01:06:38 PM »

Only fairly airtight? Do you know the sources of your leaks? If you have new bellows, any leaks are either (a) going to be around the gaskets - try gently tightening the screws a little more; or (b) from the pallets - check each one for seating and seal. <snip>

Or (c), one I find commonly on old Hohners, the fondos being no longer airtight where they meet the casework. A bead of PVA around the joint usually fixes this.
Good point, Lester!
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Grape Ape

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Re: Igor bellows
« Reply #5 on: December 31, 2017, 06:04:29 PM »

Cugiok, what did phase 1 entail? Did you retape the bellows?
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Re: Igor bellows
« Reply #6 on: December 31, 2017, 06:05:38 PM »

Also why "Igor?"
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John MacKenzie (Cugiok)

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Re: Igor bellows
« Reply #7 on: December 31, 2017, 06:09:42 PM »

No, I sent the old bellows to Igor, (in Slovenija) and he made me new ones. I had to strip off the old corners etc., and refit, and regasket, when he returned them. Apart from that I refaced all the pallets, and tidied the rest up. I couldn't figure out how to limit the button travel though, as the levers and keys together only just fit the aperture in the keyboard, leaving no room for padding, until they were fully inside, and the buttons located in their holes.

Sir John
« Last Edit: December 31, 2017, 06:11:32 PM by John MacKenzie (Cugiok) »
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Re: Igor bellows
« Reply #8 on: December 31, 2017, 10:40:24 PM »


 I couldn't figure out how to limit the button travel though, as the levers and keys together only just fit the aperture in the keyboard, leaving no room for padding, until they were fully inside, and the buttons located in their holes.


Best done with the keyframe detached from the body. and using a stiffened grade of felt, around 4 mm thick (uncompressed). Fixing the felt to the floor of the keyboard needs only a little adhesive if cut accurately, as the stiffness of the felt will not allow bunching or lateral movement sometimes found with the usual woven baize (sp?) material.

While you're at it, it might also be worth replacing the tiny brass screws which hold the keyframe with a slightly larger/longer size (or even with small nuts and bolts) to avoid the seemingly common problem of the spring pressure pulling the screws from the wood. (May need a slight enlargement of the holes in the keyframe.)

Hope this might assist, though ideally should perhaps have been done prior to the work on the pallets and key alignment....
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John MacKenzie (Cugiok)

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Re: Igor bellows
« Reply #9 on: December 31, 2017, 10:47:42 PM »

Thanks for that. I have been toying with the idea of cutting the bottom edge of the keyboard cover off, then doing a mod, that will allow it to be replaced with just a couple of screws

SJ
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Malcolm Clapp

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Re: Igor bellows
« Reply #10 on: December 31, 2017, 11:10:11 PM »

Thanks for that. I have been toying with the idea of cutting the bottom edge of the keyboard cover off, then doing a mod, that will allow it to be replaced with just a couple of screws

SJ

Thinking outside the box (duh!), if you were considering that sort of surgery, why not cut the front edge off instead. Felt can then be slipped in under the keys, then replace the edge with a concave moulding to give you a (desirable?) thumb groove like on the Preciosa model. I've never tried this myself, but the initial cut would appear more likely to succeed than removing the bottom edge, which I have tried in the past, but with disastrous consequences....
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Re: Igor bellows
« Reply #11 on: December 31, 2017, 11:16:47 PM »

I Like that a lot

SJ
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Re: Igor bellows
« Reply #12 on: December 31, 2017, 11:32:12 PM »

Personally I would prefer a button limiting method just under the buttons, as you suggest.

However, Theo's widely used method is inboard of the finger board assembly, immediately in front of the hinges. This does not require surgery of the fingerboard.

Although I am much in favour of the Liliput/club type finger groove.  :||: :|||:
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Re: Igor bellows
« Reply #13 on: January 01, 2018, 12:59:43 AM »

Another option is to get an Acorn keyboard from Pete Ward. If you ask him for one without pair you can stain and varnish it to match the box.
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Re: Igor bellows
« Reply #14 on: January 01, 2018, 01:35:23 AM »

Another option is to get an Acorn keyboard from Pete Ward. If you ask him for one without pair you can stain and varnish it to match the box.

Or you could do that after you stuff up the removal of the bottom of the existing keyboard.... like wot I did.  :-[ :-[ :-[
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Re: Igor bellows
« Reply #15 on: January 01, 2018, 10:02:27 AM »

Did you try cutting a panel in the bottom, or taking a complete slice off with a band saw, Malcolm?

SJ
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Re: Igor bellows
« Reply #16 on: January 01, 2018, 02:01:53 PM »

Noooo- don't cut it up!  I used Theo's method on my Presswood and it worked wonders.  Easy to do as well.  Just cut a small strip of wood, top with felt, and glue under the mechanism in the box not the keyboard.  Took all of ten minutes and been playing it ever since. 
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Re: Igor bellows
« Reply #17 on: January 01, 2018, 02:35:25 PM »

Yes, but I recommend fixing with screws rather than glue.  You might want to make adjustments later. And it’s quicker, you can assemble immediately without having to wait for glue to dry.
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Re: Igor bellows
« Reply #18 on: January 01, 2018, 03:57:33 PM »

I used a non permanent glue.  Didn’t really need it even as the piece of wood I used was the perfect size and had a snug fit on it’s own.  Would be very easy to remove if for some reason I were to decide I actually preferred when my fingers used to sink into the holes....
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Re: Igor bellows
« Reply #19 on: January 01, 2018, 09:35:40 PM »

Did you try cutting a panel in the bottom, or taking a complete slice off with a band saw, Malcolm?

Short answer is the band saw slice. A woodworking friend has a very very well-equipped workshop, but still managed to get the keyboard to more or less disintegrate. If only we had an infinite supply of keyboards to practice on, I think it might have worked....

Cutting a panel would probably have been a better solution, but a new replacement keyboard better still.....

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