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Author Topic: Is it me or the box and what if it doesn't matter?  (Read 6974 times)

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Eshed

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Re: Is it me or the box and what if it doesn't matter?
« Reply #40 on: January 28, 2018, 10:51:35 AM »

...or at least, to hear the difficulties he has with it.

So I tried recording my issue, but obviously, when I'm not stressed about getting everything right, everything does play correctly!

I tried Lester's suggestion, and while some reeds respond fast, I think there are quite a few that are lazy (exactly as you've said, air, then one reed and then the other). Most are pull notes for some reason?
I suspect that the inconsistency is what throws me off the most.
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Do you have a Hohner from 1934-1945 with a serial number on?
Send me a private message or comment on the German Accordion Problem spreadsheet to improve the statistics of the project and get an estimate of the production date of the box if it is not known.

george garside

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Re: Is it me or the box and what if it doesn't matter?
« Reply #41 on: January 28, 2018, 11:35:20 AM »

there is nothing wrong with a good Scarlatti nero or most other Chinese boxes. the problem  is finding a good one as the quality control seems to be lacking  so best buy one from a shop or festival stall where you can try several and pick out a good one rather than buying on t'internet.

or if buying second hand  try before you buy.

Perhaps also avoid having a go on a costalloti  in the shop  as the quality and playability is very roughly in proportion to the price of the thing  and  the Chinese box is bound to feel inferior.  that does not mean that it is going to be  difficult to play  for  eg Morris  or pub sessions   or just to get the hang of before , maybe or maybe not, deciding to fork out a lot of brass.

When I started there were no Chinese melodeons about  so the pokerwork was the 'starter ' box pricewise and then at hugely greater cost a Paulo soprani. So most of us were very happy with the pokerwork/Erica/double ray family and indeed still are.

The marketing people had not coined the  word ''   upgrade'' so very few felt the need so to do!

george
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Sebastian

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Re: Is it me or the box and what if it doesn't matter?
« Reply #42 on: January 28, 2018, 02:09:53 PM »

I tried Lester's suggestion, and while some reeds respond fast, I think there are quite a few that are lazy (exactly as you've said, air, then one reed and then the other).
That can be mended to some degree (normally by adjusting the gap between reed plate and the tip of the reed) by an accordion repair shop, quite as Lester said. As they don't have to be specialised in diatonic accordions, you should be able to find one not to far away from you. You could do it yourself, but maybe you don't want to try if you have only one box. (:)
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Eshed

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Re: Is it me or the box and what if it doesn't matter?
« Reply #43 on: January 28, 2018, 02:40:15 PM »

That can be mended to some degree (normally by adjusting the gap between reed plate and the tip of the reed) by an accordion repair shop, quite as Lester said. As they don't have to be specialised in diatonic accordions, you should be able to find one not to far away from you. You could do it yourself, but maybe you don't want to try if you have only one box. (:)
I have some experience doing it with harmonicas (I've managed to break one when tuning, but I'm now smarter). As you've said I'd rather not do it on the box.

There are one or two PA doctors around, I'd probably be able to talk to them and get a quote.
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Do you have a Hohner from 1934-1945 with a serial number on?
Send me a private message or comment on the German Accordion Problem spreadsheet to improve the statistics of the project and get an estimate of the production date of the box if it is not known.

Steve C.

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Re: Is it me or the box and what if it doesn't matter?
« Reply #44 on: January 28, 2018, 04:00:20 PM »

Hey, Eshed, I got to tell you, I finally got around to looking at your video and:
1) you can play!  wot's the big deal?
2) box sounds fine to me
3) you play bass end with ALL FOUR FINGERS!!!!  Man, I wish I would have learned by now to do that....

As an aside, for phrasing and variety, take a look at McGroogers Hallsway Carol.  It's got the schottishe rhythm which is nice and when you sing along (wish I had his style!) you can kinda guide your playing to suit. 
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Eshed

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Re: Is it me or the box and what if it doesn't matter?
« Reply #45 on: March 13, 2018, 09:18:19 PM »

A bit of closure to the thread: It is both me and the box.

In February I've worked on fast notes quite a bit and managed to have them sound correctly in a much more deterministic fashion.
However, two days ago I've been self-diagnosed with a certain disease, as I'm now the proud owner of a C/F Hohner Club IIB Victoria.
Even though it is not in the best of conditions (that deserves a separate thread), the RH is significantly more responsive than my first box which makes it a pleasure to play.
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Do you have a Hohner from 1934-1945 with a serial number on?
Send me a private message or comment on the German Accordion Problem spreadsheet to improve the statistics of the project and get an estimate of the production date of the box if it is not known.

Barlow

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Re: Is it me or the box and what if it doesn't matter?
« Reply #46 on: March 14, 2018, 01:46:14 PM »

From day one I started with a loaned brand spanking new Castagnari.

How I would have loved the excuse that my instrument was preventing me from playing fast notes etc.

The only answer to my wondering why I was not learning so quickly was "more practice, more practice, more practice!"
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boxer

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Re: Is it me or the box and what if it doesn't matter?
« Reply #47 on: March 14, 2018, 07:21:15 PM »

18 months is the blink of an eye in the universe of boxes.  Give yourself a break.  My experience of learning (which after many years is a continuing experience) has been that it's best to learn on a good box, and once you've made a bit of progress, it becomes possible to play poorer boxes reasonably well too.  Learning from the start on a poorer box is a lot slower, much harder and far less rewarding.

In this context a "good" box has light spring weight, limited key travel and easy bellows, and reeds that speak readily, all the way up the keyboard. 

Assessing these characteristics objectively is only possible when you've played a good number of instruments.  My advice would be to get your hands on every box you can, and play them for as long as you can get away with.  It'll give you an idea of how your own box ranks.

Although I'd spent quite a lot of money on them, it wasn't till I got my fourth box that I made any real progress.  The paradox is that the box I now play most cost a small fraction of the money I spent on the first three (not to mention the cost of the others in my collection).

Most of the characteristics I've listed as making a "good" box are matters of adjustment than manufacture.  If any of those early boxes had been set up properly I'd have played a lot better a lot sooner, and spent a lot less money.   

Good luck






     
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Nuage, Tommy, Cairdin, 
Double Ray DLX 21x12, Black Dot,
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plus various stringed things
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