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Author Topic: Lumpy wax  (Read 3951 times)

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Graham Spencer

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Re: Lumpy wax
« Reply #20 on: August 19, 2018, 07:50:42 AM »

I've used the paintbrush method too- it's very hard on paintbrushes!  It does work, though I can't get the slick finish that Charlie Marshall achieves with this technique. It does get easier and neater with practice, though.  I now generally use a tjanting (on the advice of my wife, who used to teach textiles) - you can get them with a variety of spout diameters.

Graham
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Among others, Saltarelle Pastourelle II D/G; Hohner 4-stop 1-rows in C & G; assorted Hohners; 3-voice German (?) G/C of uncertain parentage; lovely little Hlavacek 1-row Heligonka; B♭/E♭ Koch. Newly acquired G/C Hohner Viktoria. Also Fender Jazz bass, Telecaster, Stratocaster, Epiphone Sheraton, Charvel-Jackson 00-style acoustic guitar, Danelectro 12-string and other stuff..........

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mselic

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Re: Lumpy wax
« Reply #21 on: August 19, 2018, 02:09:16 PM »

I've used the paintbrush method too- it's very hard on paintbrushes!  It does work, though I can't get the slick finish that Charlie Marshall achieves with this technique. It does get easier and neater with practice, though.  I now generally use a tjanting (on the advice of my wife, who used to teach textiles) - you can get them with a variety of spout diameters.

Graham

I’d never heard of a tjanting tool before, but that looks perfect! Just wondering, though - how does one keep the ‘spout’ from getting gummed up and blocked with wax?
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Graham Spencer

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Re: Lumpy wax
« Reply #22 on: August 19, 2018, 03:32:35 PM »

I've used the paintbrush method too- it's very hard on paintbrushes!  It does work, though I can't get the slick finish that Charlie Marshall achieves with this technique. It does get easier and neater with practice, though.  I now generally use a tjanting (on the advice of my wife, who used to teach textiles) - you can get them with a variety of spout diameters.

Graham

I’d never heard of a tjanting tool before, but that looks perfect! Just wondering, though - how does one keep the ‘spout’ from getting gummed up and blocked with wax?
Many of them come with a steel "plug"; in any case, any solidified wax in the spout soon melts when the tool is up to temperature.
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Among others, Saltarelle Pastourelle II D/G; Hohner 4-stop 1-rows in C & G; assorted Hohners; 3-voice German (?) G/C of uncertain parentage; lovely little Hlavacek 1-row Heligonka; B♭/E♭ Koch. Newly acquired G/C Hohner Viktoria. Also Fender Jazz bass, Telecaster, Stratocaster, Epiphone Sheraton, Charvel-Jackson 00-style acoustic guitar, Danelectro 12-string and other stuff..........

Squeezing in the Cyprus sunshine

Ebor_fiddler

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Re: Lumpy wax
« Reply #23 on: August 19, 2018, 08:39:38 PM »

I've only done this job once, but it was successful and the reeds are still in situ and don't leak air in the wrong places. When I had finished making the wax mix, I let it set wide and thin. When set, I sliced off pieces the shape and size of a very thin matchstick. I then took one of these Matchmakers in hand and applied my modelling soldering iron near enough to melt the wax into place, but without actually touching it. I can hear the horrified gasps of more experienced workers before I post, but it did the job and looked reasonably tidily finished.

Chris B.
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Frank Pallister

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Re: Lumpy wax
« Reply #24 on: August 19, 2018, 09:46:11 PM »

my experience a bit like chris , i put a ceramic tile in a freezer bag and pour my molten reed wax to form a smooth flat thin  disc on the outside of bag (dont want it sticking to tile )  ,put in freezer to cool then remove bag from tile and you can slice matchstick pieces to size with scalpel or cut longer lengths to feed into soldering iron  on reed edge (like welding rod !)   
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