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Author Topic: Sideproject: my first 1-row Hohner  (Read 1678 times)

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Theo

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Re: Sideproject: my first 1-row Hohner
« Reply #20 on: June 30, 2018, 07:42:05 AM »

...  I replaced like for like as I didn't know any better ...

Always a good method
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Fred

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Re: Sideproject: my first 1-row Hohner
« Reply #21 on: July 02, 2018, 06:19:40 PM »

So I've measured the valves which were used in my project box and a simple question occurred to me:
If I need 6 different lengths of valves but all of them have the same width, can I just buy the longest one needed and cut the rest out of them? (e.g. I buy 28 x 5.5 mm valves and cut them to 26, 24, 22 and so on)
The most simple questions are sometimes the hardest to answer as 15 different threads on valves (material, lengths, punched holes etc.) did not provide me with an answer.
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Lester

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Re: Sideproject: my first 1-row Hohner
« Reply #22 on: July 02, 2018, 06:31:11 PM »

So I've measured the valves which were used in my project box and a simple question occurred to me:
If I need 6 different lengths of valves but all of them have the same width, can I just buy the longest one needed and cut the rest out of them? (e.g. I buy 28 x 5.5 mm valves and cut them to 26, 24, 22 and so on)
The most simple questions are sometimes the hardest to answer as 15 different threads on valves (material, lengths, punched holes etc.) did not provide me with an answer.

For the treble I would use either THESE for most of the reeds or THESE for the smaller ones. You may also need THESE for the lowest reed and the chord reeds.

The bass reeds will need something from Charlie's Synthetic/Vinyl Bass Valve selection

Fred

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Re: Sideproject: my first 1-row Hohner
« Reply #23 on: July 02, 2018, 06:36:23 PM »

Thank you for your answer, Lester. So can I take from that, that it is no problem at all to cut longer valves to the desired lengths?
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Lester

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Re: Sideproject: my first 1-row Hohner
« Reply #24 on: July 02, 2018, 06:40:36 PM »

Thank you for your answer, Lester. So can I take from that, that it is no problem at all to cut longer valves to the desired lengths?

Sorry missed that part, yes I trim valves all the time. On the double layer ones it is best to trim the shorter layer by the same percentage as you shorten the long layer (by eye rather than anything more accurate)

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Re: Sideproject: my first 1-row Hohner
« Reply #25 on: July 02, 2018, 07:01:19 PM »

Lovely! Thank you very much, I'll get to order some valves then.
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Fred

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Re: Sideproject: my first 1-row Hohner
« Reply #26 on: November 14, 2018, 02:39:52 PM »

Since I now have time for hobbies again, I decided to learn how to rebuild a melodeon. This 1-row will be my starting point as it is in a poor condition and i feel like i can't really destroy anything but only make things better. (:)

I've now started to take apart the bass side:
- remove the reeds
- clean the reed plates and blocks with an old kitchen knife and a fine sandpaper
- remove residue glue and such
- revalve the reeds and reapply them to the block.

So far this has been a fun process. I decided against buying a ultrasonic cleaning apparatus and just accept the reeds in the condition they were, aside from a bit of handcleaning. After I'm done with these things for every reed block, I'm going to try to retune it. Very much looking forward to that.

Pictures of current process will follow.
« Last Edit: November 14, 2018, 02:41:48 PM by Fred »
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Fred

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Re: Sideproject: my first 1-row Hohner
« Reply #27 on: November 14, 2018, 02:49:31 PM »

Cleaning off the mounting point for the reedblocks on the bass side.


Waxing the reedplates back in. Not bad for a first try, eh? I'm hoping to improve the waxing a bit more, but I'd be happy if this is airtight. (Nevermind the rust on the reeds. I'll get rid of that at a later point when I'm tuning. Or at least that's what I hope. Learning by doing and such. :D )



This is the soldering iron that I'm using for melting and applying the wax. Its heat is adjustable and its point is rather small so it's perfect to get into the small corners between reedblock and reedplates. Also it was very cheap (15 € if I remember correctly).
« Last Edit: November 14, 2018, 02:51:19 PM by Fred »
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Lester

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Re: Sideproject: my first 1-row Hohner
« Reply #28 on: November 14, 2018, 03:16:56 PM »

My worry is that you have waxed the bass reeds onto the block before glueing it back in place.if the reeds are not flush with the condo when the block is refitted there is a reasonable possibility that when you wax along the bottom of the reed and the condo that wax can flow into the holes in the fondo and gum up the pallets. Not that this as ever happened to me

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Re: Sideproject: my first 1-row Hohner
« Reply #29 on: November 14, 2018, 03:34:36 PM »

Ah that's a good experience that you have not made there, Lester. Thank you for sharing your imaginations. ;-)
However, it's too late now to follow your predictive power and so I will have to make sure that I am very cautious when I seal the bottom of the reedplates after glueing the blocks back in.

Speaking of glueing in: Can I just use a few drops of the same glue I've used for the valves? Or should I use simple wood glue for that? Thanks for any insights (imaginative or experienced).
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Lester

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Re: Sideproject: my first 1-row Hohner
« Reply #30 on: November 14, 2018, 03:45:34 PM »

Ah that's a good experience that you have not made there, Lester. Thank you for sharing your imaginations. ;-)
However, it's too late now to follow your predictive power and so I will have to make sure that I am very cautious when I seal the bottom of the reedplates after glueing the blocks back in.

Speaking of glueing in: Can I just use a few drops of the same glue I've used for the valves? Or should I use simple wood glue for that? Thanks for any insights (imaginative or experienced).


I would be inclined to remove the reeds before gluing the block back in so that you can be assured that there is glue along all the edges that should be presenting an air tight seal. I use woodworking PVA and use an artists brush to paint glue along all such edges.
And removing/rewaxing the reeds can be looked upon as practice  ;)

Pearse Rossa

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Re: Sideproject: my first 1-row Hohner
« Reply #31 on: November 14, 2018, 03:46:49 PM »

(Nevermind the rust on the reeds. I'll get rid of that at a later point when I'm tuning. Or at least that's what I hope.

That is not a great approach. The reeds should be cleaned before revalving and waxing.
You are making life unnecessarily difficult for yourself.
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Lester

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Re: Sideproject: my first 1-row Hohner
« Reply #32 on: November 14, 2018, 03:50:24 PM »

(Nevermind the rust on the reeds. I'll get rid of that at a later point when I'm tuning. Or at least that's what I hope.

That is not a great approach. The reeds should be cleaned before revalving and waxing.
You are making life unnecessarily difficult for yourself.


Must have missed that PR is spot on.

Steve_freereeder

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Re: Sideproject: my first 1-row Hohner
« Reply #33 on: November 14, 2018, 03:55:52 PM »

Waxing the reedplates back in. Not bad for a first try, eh? I'm hoping to improve the waxing a bit more, but I'd be happy if this is airtight. (Nevermind the rust on the reeds. I'll get rid of that at a later point when I'm tuning. Or at least that's what I hope. Learning by doing and such. :D )
The rust doesn't look too bad, but you would really be better off cleaning any rust off the reeds before re-valving and waxing the reed plates on to the reed block. That way you can get to both sides of the reed tongues. Often I've noticed more rust on the underside of the reed tongues than the top surface (don't know why). 

Even though you've just waxed them into place, it's not too difficult or onerous to pop off the reed plates, clean the rust off (be careful not to damage the valves) and then re-wax. Tuning reeds which are still rusty is always a false short-cut.

Quote
Speaking of glueing in: Can I just use a few drops of the same glue I've used for the valves? Or should I use simple wood glue for that? Thanks for any insights (imaginative or experienced).
You need a rigid joint between the reed block and the fondo, so a contact/impact adhesive is not the best sort to use as it always remains slightly flexible. Ideally use an animal/hide glue, which is removeable if/when necessary, by dampening and warming the joint. However, PVA woodworking glue is probably the easiest choice, but don't expect (yourself or another repair person :o ) to be able to get the reed block off again in the future. :-(
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Fred

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Re: Sideproject: my first 1-row Hohner
« Reply #34 on: November 14, 2018, 04:01:31 PM »

Thank you all for talking about cleaning the reeds first (which I somehow did) and also removing the rust in the same process (which I didn't).
What's the best way to get rid of the rust on the reeds? It seemed to me that simply removing it which a small file when tuning would be the easiest way. However, I'm open to other approaches and good tips. :)
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Re: Sideproject: my first 1-row Hohner
« Reply #35 on: November 14, 2018, 04:09:07 PM »

Thank you all for talking about cleaning the reeds first (which I somehow did) and also removing the rust in the same process (which I didn't).
What's the best way to get rid of the rust on the reeds? It seemed to me that simply removing it which a small file when tuning would be the easiest way. However, I'm open to other approaches and good tips. :)
Gentle scraping of the reed tongue with the tip of a small flat screwdriver blade works well. Or you could use a very fine file but it's difficult to get into the slot, but take care not to remove any steel. I sometimes use a manicurist's very fine emery board (an old, worn one is ideal) cut with old scissors into thin strips, thin enough to get into the slot. Take care also not to damage the sides of the slot. Remember to support the reed tongue with a steel or brass shim while doing any filing/scraping.
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Theo

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Re: Sideproject: my first 1-row Hohner
« Reply #36 on: November 14, 2018, 05:04:35 PM »

Rust is quite abrasive so if you use a file use an old worn one. This will also limit the amount of metal you remove.

Glue:  the bass block will have been glued with hide glue which is not compatible with modern synthetic adhesives.  To get a decent bond with pva or other modern glue it is essential to remove all traces of the old glue from both surfaces.
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Re: Sideproject: my first 1-row Hohner
« Reply #37 on: November 14, 2018, 05:53:30 PM »

It's hardly ever necessary to use a file to remove rust. At least, that has been my experience.
It's usually just surface rust and is not deeply embedded.
Very fine emery or sandpaper will usually do the trick.
I find that a simple eraser will shift it in most instances, and it does not remove any steel.
Of course, the reeds will need to be cleaned of all debris after such a process.
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Fred

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Re: Sideproject: my first 1-row Hohner
« Reply #38 on: November 15, 2018, 05:26:20 PM »

Alright. I've now removed the reeds from the block again and removed all the rust.
Here's an example picture of what one of the bass side chord reeds looks like before and after rust removal. I think it's noticeable and hope it will be worth the effort. (Of course it will, at least that's what you all told me. And who am I to doubt that? :D )



Furthermore, I need your help:
The bass block was already detached when I received the box so I don't know which way around it has to be. See the attached pictures to know what I mean. Does anyone have one of those Hohner 1-row boxes and/or can tell me which way is the right one? Thanks in advance, as always. (:)

This way?

Or that way?

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Lester

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Re: Sideproject: my first 1-row Hohner
« Reply #39 on: November 15, 2018, 05:28:48 PM »





This way, if you mount it the other way the longer swing of the big reeds could foul the bellows
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