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Author Topic: Hot Rod your Hohner  (Read 5678 times)

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John MacKenzie (Cugiok)

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Re: Hot Rod your Hohner
« Reply #20 on: March 09, 2019, 09:10:25 PM »

Magic Lester, only thing I do differently, is I glue a strip of scrap leather across the wooden strip. before screwing it into position. It just adds to the dampening effect.

SJ
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: Hohner Club Modell 1. Bb/Eb, de-clubbed : Early Hohner Pressed Wood A/D : Hohner Club II (De-clubbed) D/G : Hagstrom G/C: Hohner Corona IIIR G/C/F :Preciosa Bb/Eb. Hohner 384 1930's Varnished wood G/C: Hohner B/E: Hohner Erika C/F: Hohner Pre Corso C/F : Bb/Eb Liliput, in restoration.

Tone Dumb Greg

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Re: Hot Rod your Hohner
« Reply #21 on: March 09, 2019, 10:38:54 PM »

Does this add anything to the noise made by the action?
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Theo

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Re: Hot Rod your Hohner
« Reply #22 on: March 09, 2019, 11:23:00 PM »

And today children, in Episode 3, we shall be Restricting the Treble Action

Thanks to Theo for the original idea.

https://youtu.be/AVtbYmi1oxE


And I got the original idea from the late Richard Morse, founder of the Button Box.
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Re: Hot Rod your Hohner
« Reply #23 on: March 09, 2019, 11:26:48 PM »

Does this add anything to the noise made by the action?

I did it on my 1040 with a soft pine strip it worked good and I didn’t notice a noise, but will say that it felt abrupt at the stop point (to me). I have an access panel so I took the pine strip out and went the felt under the lever inside the finger board.

Thanks for sharing Lester / Teacher!!!

Edit to fix grammar
« Last Edit: March 10, 2019, 02:08:37 AM by boxcall »
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Hohner 1040 C, Beltuna one row four stop D, O'Byrne Dewitt/ Baldoni bros. D/C#, Paolo soprani "pepperpot" one row D

Jesse Smith

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Re: Hot Rod your Hohner
« Reply #24 on: March 10, 2019, 01:45:59 AM »

"Normal for Hohner"...  ;D  But in seriousness, is this "from the factory" tuning, or does the tuning just naturally drift with age and less than ideal storage conditions (attic, basement, shed, etc.)?

I'm really looking forward to this whole series. It always gives me great appreciation for these Hohner boxes, which were obviously designed to be inexpensively mass produced and yet are so wonderfully open to repair and to replacement of individual parts. Artifacts of an older ethos that expected complex objects to be maintained incrementally over time rather than simply replaced wholesale when something goes wrong.
« Last Edit: March 10, 2019, 01:51:07 AM by Jesse Smith »
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Re: Hot Rod your Hohner
« Reply #25 on: March 10, 2019, 02:32:54 AM »

Does this add anything to the noise made by the action?
Yes - I find that this method does result in a distinct 'clunk' as the levers contact the wood strip, even with soft pine.
I get round this by filing shallow grooves where the levers contact the wood strip and then gluing a strip of chamois leather on top of the wood strip, pressing the leather down into the grooves. This forms a nice buffer and considerably reduces the sound and the abruptness of the stop. I guess the leather would wear out eventually, although it can easily be replaced.

The wood strip (with leather buffer) method is a good one if you are planning on keeping the plastic keyboard. But a much better method of reducing the button travel is to replace the keyboard with a new wooden one, with a removeable back plate which allows you to install felt buffers under the button end of the levers. Replacement keyboards like this for Pokerworks and Ericas are available frm Acorn Instruments (Pete Ward makes the keyboards) and I believe Charlie Marshall sells them too.
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Lester

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Re: Hot Rod your Hohner
« Reply #26 on: March 10, 2019, 07:48:51 AM »

Does this add anything to the noise made by the action?
Yes - I find that this method does result in a distinct 'clunk' as the levers contact the wood strip, even with soft pine.
I get round this by filing shallow grooves where the levers contact the wood strip and then gluing a strip of chamois leather on top of the wood strip, pressing the leather down into the grooves. This forms a nice buffer and considerably reduces the sound and the abruptness of the stop. I guess the leather would wear out eventually, although it can easily be replaced.

The wood strip (with leather buffer) method is a good one if you are planning on keeping the plastic keyboard. But a much better method of reducing the button travel is to replace the keyboard with a new wooden one, with a removeable back plate which allows you to install felt buffers under the button end of the levers. Replacement keyboards like this for Pokerworks and Ericas are available frm Acorn Instruments (Pete Ward makes the keyboards) and I believe Charlie Marshall sells them too.


I find the action to be more or less silent, at least not detectable when playing. But YMMV

As too Pete's replacement fingerboard that video will arriving not long after the keyboard pops through my letterbox. I agree it is a better solution but it is not as easy and more costly.

Lester

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Re: Hot Rod your Hohner
« Reply #27 on: March 14, 2019, 01:00:32 PM »

Not the most exciting video but Removing the Thumbstrap

John MacKenzie (Cugiok)

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Re: Hot Rod your Hohner
« Reply #28 on: March 14, 2019, 01:25:12 PM »

It says, "Unavailable" Lester

SJ
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: Hohner Club Modell 1. Bb/Eb, de-clubbed : Early Hohner Pressed Wood A/D : Hohner Club II (De-clubbed) D/G : Hagstrom G/C: Hohner Corona IIIR G/C/F :Preciosa Bb/Eb. Hohner 384 1930's Varnished wood G/C: Hohner B/E: Hohner Erika C/F: Hohner Pre Corso C/F : Bb/Eb Liliput, in restoration.

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Re: Hot Rod your Hohner
« Reply #29 on: March 14, 2019, 01:32:28 PM »

Steve C.

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Re: Hot Rod your Hohner
« Reply #30 on: March 14, 2019, 03:54:17 PM »

Lester, from Charlies site, which exactly is the material used to reface the treble pallets?  He has a leather/felt that looks right but not quite the same size as in the video... (or when I order, what should I ask for?  usually he send me the right thing even if I ask for the wrong one...)
Also, is the type of hot glue particular?  Do you use it at high or low melt?
THANKS.
Steve C.
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Lester

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Re: Hot Rod your Hohner
« Reply #31 on: March 14, 2019, 04:07:43 PM »

Lester, from Charlies site, which exactly is the material used to reface the treble pallets?  He has a leather/felt that looks right but not quite the same size as in the video... (or when I order, what should I ask for?  usually he send me the right thing even if I ask for the wrong one...)
Also, is the type of hot glue particular?  Do you use it at high or low melt?
THANKS.
Steve C.


It's this one but I buy big bits so he cuts it larger

John MacKenzie (Cugiok)

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Re: Hot Rod your Hohner
« Reply #32 on: March 14, 2019, 04:21:59 PM »

I don't know what you think re felt thickness Lester. I use 2 mm on the inner/shorter travel pallets, and 2.5 on the outer, or longer travel pallets. Theory of this is the higher the lift, the bigger the bang when it hits the fondo. So it dampens the longer ones that bit more. 1.5 on Liliputs etc.

Sir John
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: Hohner Club Modell 1. Bb/Eb, de-clubbed : Early Hohner Pressed Wood A/D : Hohner Club II (De-clubbed) D/G : Hagstrom G/C: Hohner Corona IIIR G/C/F :Preciosa Bb/Eb. Hohner 384 1930's Varnished wood G/C: Hohner B/E: Hohner Erika C/F: Hohner Pre Corso C/F : Bb/Eb Liliput, in restoration.

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Re: Hot Rod your Hohner
« Reply #33 on: March 14, 2019, 04:51:12 PM »

I don't know what you think re felt thickness Lester. I use 2 mm on the inner/shorter travel pallets, and 2.5 on the outer, or longer travel pallets. Theory of this is the higher the lift, the bigger the bang when it hits the fondo. So it dampens the longer ones that bit more. 1.5 on Liliputs etc.

Sir John


I use the Charlies felt/leather  same thickness for all pallets

Steve C.

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Re: Hot Rod your Hohner
« Reply #34 on: March 14, 2019, 05:39:32 PM »

Excellent, thank you.
(for use on older Hohners << missed this definite CLUE)
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Lester

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Re: Hot Rod your Hohner
« Reply #35 on: March 16, 2019, 03:42:35 PM »

Steve_freereeder

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Re: Hot Rod your Hohner
« Reply #36 on: March 16, 2019, 04:41:37 PM »

Another excellent video, Lester. Great stuff!  (:)




I reface the air button pallet though.
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Theo

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Re: Hot Rod your Hohner
« Reply #37 on: March 16, 2019, 05:26:47 PM »

Good stuff Lester.

Just one small refinement. When applying glue to the pallets I always use a plastic spatula to spread the glue. Two advantages - avoiding glue on the fingers, and I like to use the bare minimum so the glue can’t soak into the felt any further than necessary.
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Theo Gibb - Gateshead UK

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Pete Dunk

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Re: Hot Rod your Hohner
« Reply #38 on: March 16, 2019, 07:08:38 PM »

I'm enjoying this series immensely Lester, thanks for spending so much time on making it so detailed. I hope you don't mind me making a suggestion that may make your life a little easier. When refitting the arms to set the button height, if you fit them in reverse order - 8, 7, 6, 5 etc you will be working back towards yourself without the arm you've just fitted getting in your way and being such a nuisance. Easy to see in hindsight I know!

I'm very much looking forward to the rest of the series, particularly the button bushing and seeing how you ream the holes out.  (:)
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Re: Hot Rod your Hohner
« Reply #39 on: March 18, 2019, 04:32:41 AM »

Thanks for this video, Lester! When you do the "judicious bending", is that to account for the increased thickness of the pallet facing? If so, where exactly are you bending? With the treble buttons, it was clear that you're just holding the pallets closed while pressing the buttons, but I wasn't sure what the equivalent action is on the bass side.

Or were you just bending the rods to make sure the buttons move in their holes without rubbing or sticking? Maybe the adjustment for button height can't happen until after the button bushings are done?
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