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[boxcall]

Pallet arm to pallet should be fixed with something that allied the pallets to be removed, wax is traditional.

Thanks Theo , I was going to use something removable there ( maybe a gob of hot glue) then cover that point with a strip of birch banding tape which would match the birch fondo and be removable.
Not sure yet though? I like to let things just come to life, no set plan really, using what’s available etc.

I was asking about the other end of the SS pallet arm where it goes though the lever in keyboard?
Something that has a bit of open time would be nice.

[Steve_freereeder]

Pallet arm to pallet should be fixed with something that allied the pallets to be removed, wax is traditional.

Thanks Theo , I was going to use something removable there ( maybe a gob of hot glue) then cover that point with a strip of birch banding tape which would match the birch fondo and be removable.
Not sure yet though? I like to let things just come to life, no set plan really, using what’s available etc.

Using wax to secure pallets to the pallet arms is more common on instruments where the pallets are protected behind a grille. I may be wrong, but I don't think wax is normally used on a traditional open pallet one-row box. I've never seen one anyway. My instinct would be to avoid wax because the pallets are more susceptible to slight knocks and bumps which would risk loosening a wax join.

The usual way of securing the pallets on an open pallet box is to flatten the last centimetre or so of the pallet arm rod, by hammering or in a press, then drilling a couple of small holes in the flattened portion to allow the pallet to be fixed with tiny round-head wood screws. See attached photo of my Wesson Clipper which shows the pallets secured in this way.

On Emmanuel Pariselle's one-row building courses, he has the pallet arms secured in slots in the pallets using epoxy resin glue. It works fine, but as you can imagine, the pallets are not easily removeable. However, I made my one-row on the 2008 course and all the pallets and the facing material are still perfectly OK, so as yet I've had no need to remove the pallets.

[Theo]

Not everyone looks after their instruments as carefully as you Steve.  Speaking as a repairer I think it is important that there should be a way of removing and re-seating pallets that does not cause damage to the pallet or the arm.  This is especially true of designs where the pallets and arms are exposed and vulnerable to accidental damage.  If you want something stronger than wax then you could use traditional hot hide glue to secure a pallet arm in a slot in the pallet.

[boxcall]

Thanks Theo and Steve!
I ‘m going with the pallet arms sitting in the slot, like my Beltuna ( not sure what they used but it wasn’t wax). I will then cover that point as I’ve already said.
I think Melodie does something similar? Not using screws there.


My question was about the other end of the pallet arm where it attaches to lever in the keyboard?

[Steve_freereeder]

Not everyone looks after their instruments as carefully as you Steve.

This may be true although I don't quite see the relevance here.

Speaking as a repairer I think it is important that there should be a way of removing and re-seating pallets that does not cause damage to the pallet or the arm.  This is especially true of designs where the pallets and arms are exposed and vulnerable to accidental damage.

I agree, and I thought I'd more than hinted at that.

If you want something stronger than wax then you could use traditional hot hide glue to secure a pallet arm in a slot in the pallet.

I think if I were to build a one-row again, I would use a small amount of hot melt glue to secure the pallet arm in a slotted pallet and then, for cosmetic looks as much as anything else, cover the slot with a matching wood-finish tape or veneer, as Boxcall has mentioned.

My question was about the other end of the pallet arm where it attaches to lever in the keyboard?

A snug push-fit of the pallet arm rod into the hole in the lever arm, secured on the underneath side of the hole with a drop of cyano-acrylate 'super' glue which should wick its way around the join. These joints don't really need to be removable.

[boxcall]

Ok thanks Steve, I’ll try it out (the super glue) and see.
I believe Rees makes a little flat on this end after running it though the lever, glues it and taps back in.
Mentioned some where on the forum I think, I stink at searches, and can’t remember what he said.

I tried hot glue on the pallet end (sample piece) and it held good, but it can be removed for repair.
I would have like to glued it solid and filled the area with mother of pearl which of course is not ideal for said reason of repair.

I was thinking this method might be more forgiving and less work not having to make flats and find screws.

[Anahata]

I would think that epoxy glue isn't so bad if it's a metal rod pallet arm: if the pallet needs adjusting it can be done by bending the rod. For more severe breakage, damage when breaking the glue bonded area may be the least of your problems.

[diatonix]

I would think that epoxy glue isn't so bad if it's a metal rod pallet arms

The few times in my career I used epoxy glue I always ended up regretting it.

[boxcall]

I would think that epoxy glue isn't so bad if it's a metal rod pallet arms

The few times in my career I used epoxy glue I always ended up regretting it.

I hear ya!  But I did a test piece with it and it seems to hold.


Well the saga continues, its been a challenge getting parts for this thing.
I’m seeing what another supplier can do, I tried contacting them first but couldn’t get them to respond to my emails. Contact has now been made , so hopefully I can get what’s needed to finish. Also they seems to have a better selection of buttons and offer all the bits needed.

On the bright side my bellows arrived today 

[boxcall]

Made a tad more progress,
Drilled holes for the stops and frame screws.
Finish glueing up the treble end and separating the frames. More sanding needed.
Also glued up the reed blocks to sub plate and I put the treble board together and sanded it.
Next I’ll have to finish making the finger board.

[boxcall]

Question
What do you think about flipping the chord reed block , reason, is to be able to put a screw on each end of the bass box to attach it to the ( dare I say) fondo and also I will put one screw on the other sides. 4 screws in total.

In the “plan” it was in the way of the screw on one end with no problem on the other spots.
So by moving it, it would give me an opening in the spot I want.

Is there a problem with this? I would like to hear what builders / repairers think?

 Note: Flipping it puts the reed block closer to the air hole
Photos to explain

[Steve_freereeder]

For stability and secure fixing, I think it is very important to have four screws through the fondo into the bass end growl box, rather than only three. So your arrangement as shown in your second photo is the one to go for. Having the chord reed block nearer to the air hole should not make any difference to the behaviour of the reeds.

Here's a photo of the interior of the bass end of my one-row when I was building it on Emmanuel Pariselle's course. You can see the four screw holes and how the positioning of the reed blocks clears the holes.

[boxcall]

Thanks Steve,
I would have had more than three screws with the other arrangement, maybe five or six because they would not be midspan of the bass end// growl box sides.
But four would be the minimum for sure ,so I may go with the sifting of the block.

[tirpous]

I note the holes are no longer at the end of the reed chambers after you flip the block around.  This is maybe less optimal in theory (but I doubt it matters much in practice...).

4 screws is good on the growlbox.  I have a box on which there are only 2 screws (1 each end) and there is leakage along the long sides.  I'm in the process of adding 2 more screws...

[Steve_freereeder]

I note the holes are no longer at the end of the reed chambers after you flip the block around.  This is maybe less optimal in theory (but I doubt it matters much in practice...).

Just mount the reed plates the opposite way round too, so that the rivet end is closest to the chamber air vent.

[Winston Smith]

"Just mount the reed plates the opposite way round too, so that the rivet end is closest to the chamber air vent."

Does anyone know, for definite, if this makes any actually discernible difference?

[tirpous]

Just mount the reed plates the opposite way round too, so that the rivet end is closest to the chamber air vent.

That's understood Steve.  My point was that the holes in the 1st picture are at the very upper left end of the chambers, but in the 2nd picture the holes are not quite at the lower right end.

[boxcall]

Just mount the reed plates the opposite way round too, so that the rivet end is closest to the chamber air vent.

That's understood Steve.  My point was that the holes in the 1st picture are at the very upper left end of the chambers, but in the 2nd picture the holes are not quite at the lower right end.

Your right it is a bit closer in the first picture and I went ahead with the flip so that screw location would be good. I don’t think its a big deal with the holes moving slightly, we shall see!


I got a finish coat on the parts today and started assembling the keyboard, Yay!!
Also glued in the bass side blocks, any tips on gluing in the treble reeds?
I’m worrying about slides sticking trying to glue the thin strips, etc. I would go easy on the glue but...

I’m finding pocket hole screws very handy!
I’ll post a picture of the finish after its dry.

[bellowpin]

Thanks Steve,
I would have had more than three screws with the other arrangement, maybe five or six because they would not be midspan of the bass end// growl box sides.
But four would be the minimum for sure ,so I may go with the sifting of the block.

   on a weltmeister one-row I have ,there are four tiny wood screws . they are screwed into the edge of the growl box , wood only 7mm thick.  this is not very strong.  the timber of the growl-box as warped slightly , causing a air leak on the foam seal.
 I think if I put small wood blocks into the edge of timber to make it stronger . I could then use bigger wood screws ,to pull the growl-box tighter to make the seal . as anyone looked at a similar problem, is there a better idea.
  brian

[boxcall]

Hi Brian,
There is space for a bit of wood on the ends of the growl box, so why not?

On mine I plan on adding it , it also helps hold the flapper in place (on mine).
I don’t plan on using it for screwing into, but it is also adds little more structure to the glued ends.