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[boxcall]

Some finish, it should get richer with more coats.

[Pearse Rossa]

It looks superb. I'm envious.

[Steve_freereeder]

Just mount the reed plates the opposite way round too, so that the rivet end is closest to the chamber air vent.

That's understood Steve.  My point was that the holes in the 1st picture are at the very upper left end of the chambers, but in the 2nd picture the holes are not quite at the lower right end.

Yes, I noticed that. But the small amount of 'not quite-ness' shouldn't make any discernable difference; the bulk of the airflow will be along the length of the reed chamber, which is what is normally considered to be best practice to get the optimum, even, response from the reed.

[Steve_freereeder]

It looks superb. I'm envious.

Yes, it looks very fine.

[Steve_freereeder]

Also glued in the bass side blocks, any tips on gluing in the treble reeds?
I’m worrying about slides sticking trying to glue the thin strips, etc. I would go easy on the glue but...

I assume you meant 'gluing in the treble reed blocks'
Rub candle wax along both sides of the sliders before you start. Then use an even coating of glue on the reed block gluing edges, sufficient to cover the edges, but not so much to risk the glue oozing out. Clamp in position. Then keep moving the sliders by hand, up and down, gently but continuously for a few minutes, and then at a few minute intervals until the glue has at least started to set.

[boxcall]

Also glued in the bass side blocks, any tips on gluing in the treble reeds?
I’m worrying about slides sticking trying to glue the thin strips, etc. I would go easy on the glue but...

I assume you meant 'gluing in the treble reed blocks'
Rub candle wax along both sides of the sliders before you start. Then use an even coating of glue on the reed block gluing edges, sufficient to cover the edges, but not so much to risk the glue oozing out. Clamp in position. Then keep moving the sliders by hand, up and down, gently but continuously for a few minutes, and then at a few minute intervals until the glue has at least started to set.

Yes, it might be better to glue the treble blocks and not the reeds
Thanks for the tip!

[Graham W]

Thanks Steve,
I would have had more than three screws with the other arrangement, maybe five or six because they would not be midspan of the bass end// growl box sides.
But four would be the minimum for sure ,so I may go with the sifting of the block.

   on a weltmeister one-row I have ,there are four tiny wood screws . they are screwed into the edge of the growl box , wood only 7mm thick.  this is not very strong.  the timber of the growl-box as warped slightly , causing a air leak on the foam seal.
 I think if I put small wood blocks into the edge of timber to make it stronger . I could then use bigger wood screws ,to pull the growl-box tighter to make the seal . as anyone looked at a similar problem, is there a better idea.
  brian

I used 6 smallish screws, 2 in each long edge and one each end - which is probably overkill, but very firm. 
The box is looking just lovely

Graham

[boxcall]

Thanks Steve,
I would have had more than three screws with the other arrangement, maybe five or six because they would not be midspan of the bass end// growl box sides.
But four would be the minimum for sure ,so I may go with the sifting of the block.

   on a weltmeister one-row I have ,there are four tiny wood screws . they are screwed into the edge of the growl box , wood only 7mm thick.  this is not very strong.  the timber of the growl-box as warped slightly , causing a air leak on the foam seal.
 I think if I put small wood blocks into the edge of timber to make it stronger . I could then use bigger wood screws ,to pull the growl-box tighter to make the seal . as anyone looked at a similar problem, is there a better idea.
  brian

I used 6 smallish screws, 2 in each long edge and one each end - which is probably overkill, but very firm. 
The box is looking just lovely

Graham

Maybe overkill? Better safe than sorry and it does need to be strong.
My Beltuna has six screws ,not evenly spaced, staggered because the chord reed block is in the way.

I just need to find me some small screws, #4 is the smallest at my local hardware which would be to big.

[boxcall]

Rods install in levers / rocker arms ( I used epoxy)
A little more fine tuning on the bending of the arms.
I need to install the treble board springs, then I will be able to glue in the pallets and cover with some bit of banding ( test pieces shown are just rough;) )

[Steve_freereeder]

Rods install in levers / rocker arms ( I used epoxy)
A little more fine tuning on the bending of the arms.
I need to install the treble board springs, then I will be able to glue in the pallets and cover with some bit of banding ( test pieces shown are just rough;) )

It's looking good!

I would leave gluing the pallets on to the levers until the very last. Glue the buttons on to the ends of the levers before you glue the pallets. Remove the pallets before you glue the buttons. This enables the button ends of the levers to be high up which (a) makes it easier to locate the buttons in place and (b) enables you to test for clearance in the keyboard holes.

It's useful to temporarily clamp a strip of wood along the length of the keyboard, fractionally encroaching on the holes. This acts as a guide edge when gluing the buttons and ensures that all the buttons will be in a straight line.

[boxcall]

Rods install in levers / rocker arms ( I used epoxy)
A little more fine tuning on the bending of the arms.
I need to install the treble board springs, then I will be able to glue in the pallets and cover with some bit of banding ( test pieces shown are just rough;) )

Remove the pallets before you glue the buttons. This enables the button ends of the levers to be high up which (a) makes it easier to locate the buttons in place and (b) enables you to test for clearance in the keyboard holes.

“This enables the button ends of the levers to be high up”

Not sure what you mean?
The wood levers that the buttons attach to, are tight to the back of the keyboard and on the same plane so the buttons should end up flat across the keyboard.

I do get the straight edge “strip of wood” along the bottom of the button and leaving a small gap, my hole for the button is oversized if I need to, I can remove a bit of material from top of hole as and if needed. Nice thing with this finish is it forgiving.

[Steve_freereeder]

“This enables the button ends of the levers to be high up”

Not sure what you mean?
The wood levers that the buttons attach to, are tight to the back of the keyboard and on the same plane so the buttons should end up flat across the keyboard.

That's OK then. When the pallets are in place, the thickness of the pallet plus facing means that the lever tops can be well below the underside of the keyboard top plate, which can make gluing/attaching the buttons slightly more awkward. But from what you say, this is not the case on yours.

I would still recommend gluing the buttons on first before gluing the pallets. Once the buttons and pallets are in place and glued, you will almost certainly find that you will need to make final small adjustments to the button height by gently easing (=bending!) the metal pallet levers slightly up or down. Hold the pallet securely flush against the fondo board and push down gently on the button to lower the button height; pull gently on the metal pallet lever until the wooden lever contacts the base of the keyboard base/buffer to raise the button height.

It's worth adjusting the button height so that when the pallets are in contact with the fondo, there is still a small clearance between the top of the wooden lever and the underside of the keyboard top plate. This is so that you don't get any clacking noise due to the lever contacting the underside of the keyboard top plate when the buttons are smartly released.

[boxcall]

I added the springs to the keyboard, hard to know how much is needed, they feel pretty good though.
This helped with the arm adjusting because I could have pressure on the pallet.
So then with everything in place ( minus the buttons) I stuck a tool though the button hole pushing the lever back, then bent the rod down as needed to get the lever off the back of the keyboard. So no clacking. I’m testing by releasing the button and listening for no noise off keyboard and or just the sound of it hitting the fondo. I believe I’ve got it.

I wanted black buttons, but Mouton music didn’t have them so I got what they had silver buttons.
I’m now getting some parts to finish out what i need though John Doucet ( thanks melodeon), he has black pearl buttons which is what I wanted, so I’m having  him send me some.
Anyway the silver is growing on me.

I’m wondering with the silver buttons I need to glue a wood plug (provided)into the back the the silver button, so probably a very small amount of epoxy ( metal to wood ) and then what would be best for the wood in the button to the wood of the lever, should it be removable?

[Steve_freereeder]

I’m wondering with the silver buttons I need to glue a wood plug (provided)into the back the the silver button, so probably a very small amount of epoxy ( metal to wood ) and then what would be best for the wood in the button to the wood of the lever, should it be removable?

This is all looking very good! 

The Emmanuel Pariselle method (which I think is based on current Louisiana Cajun box construction) is to glue a short length of wood dowel into the back of the silver (inox, stainless steel?) button using epoxy glue, and then use epoxy glue to fix the dowel end on to the wooden lever arms. So no - it won't be removable, but that shouldn't matter. You do need to ensure that the dowel ends are cut absolutely true at 90° to the dowel axis, otherwise the buttons won't sit upright and it will look a bit naff.

I notice there are no screws in your keyboard top plate, so I assume that you have made that non-removable too. Is the keyboard back plate removable though? You may need to access the levers at some future point. 

[boxcall]

It does come apart, screws down from above, I’ve recessed the screw slightly.
I also have a thumb groove on the back corner, but still maintained the rounded top.

Edit to add: two screws from the sides also and when the keyboard top is removed you can get to the axle

[Steve_freereeder]

Excellent!

[boxcall]

Thanks,
I’m almost ready to glue bellows frames to the bellows.
Is a press needed for this or can it be done with a flat board (sized) clamped to a flat surface like a work bench?

How’s it done at the one row course?

[Lester]

Thanks,
I’m almost ready to glue bellows frames to the bellows.
Is a press needed for this or can it be done with a flat board (sized) clamped to a flat surface like a work bench?

How’s it done at the one row course?

I believe Emmanuel now uses an antique pig's head pate press, whereas I use two lengths of 6" wide contiboard and 4 quick grip bar clamps.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/dyTJZcNacmoET77k9

[boxcall]

thanks Lester
I'll use your clamp method, kinda what I was thinking as well.
what is the paper towel being used for in the photo?
is it for added pressure in that area, I can't imagine its for catching glue.

[mselic]

Looks great! Regarding the silver buttons, one thing that might be worth considering is that some people (myself included) find those cylindrical buttons a little less conducive to sliding your fingers along. Depending on your style of play, I find the squared edges can sometimes trip you up a bit. If you look at most Irish-style boxes, the buttons tend to be rounded near the edge to help facilitate sliding along the keyboard.

Nice work!