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[odonovanchris]

This question was probably asked before but I searched and couldn't find much.

What is a better C#/D layout on a 21 button box. Should I sacrifice the high F#/C# to keep the low D/G? Considering the low G is useful when playing with fiddlers. However some tunes I've made use of the high notes too. I play Irish music.

Any insight would be useful. I'm putting G-G in the basses too.

Thanks

[gettabettabox]

One option is to change button 1 on C# row to D/G.
You lose the low B flat, but still favoured by some and this method is surprisingly easy to latch onto.

[odonovanchris]

One option is to change button 1 on C# row to D/G.
You lose the low B flat, but still favoured by some and this method is surprisingly easy to latch onto.

Thanks! That makes a lot of sense. I don't think the F is particularly useful either so that solution seems to solve the issue. Only problem is my 23 button box has the normal layout so there might be some confusion switching between them every now and then. Trying to maintain consistency across the boxes.

[deltasalmon]

Some makers will put the 11 button row on the inside so you can have both (see profile pic). Frans van der Aa was one but I think he's stopped making boxes. It definitely makes more sense to have more buttons on the D row than the C# row and I wish more makers would go this route. It might make less sense on a D/G box but a B/C would be in the same boat as C#/D with more buttons in the inside row.

[richard.fleming]

All mine have DG on button 1 of the C# row and AE on button 11, which works well for me,but I agree that having a 23 button box might cause confusion. The low DG are the most useful of the two.

[odonovanchris]

I really like the idea of the 11 inner row...seems like a no-brainer for a c#d box! The A/E on the c# row is good too - it seems more useful (I never play that button). Makes the box a bit symmetrical too with the patterns on the top and bottom. Great feedback thank you.

[Stiamh]

I had a 21-button box and put the low D/G on button 1, sacrificing the top button. I wouldn't recommend it.

[odonovanchris]

Which row? the c# or d row? It seems to make sense to do it on the c# row

I had a 21-button box and put the low D/G on button 1, sacrificing the top button. I wouldn't recommend it.

[richard.fleming]

To add to my previous post, I think that the modification on both ends of the C# row that I describe may be well on the way to becoming mainstream; I believe several tuners and fettlers in Ireland tend to do it as standard now. I've just been playing a Paddy Fahy hornpipe which could not be played properly on a 21-button C#D without this modification.

[Stiamh]

Which row? the c# or d row? It seems to make sense to do it on the c# row

I had a 21-button box and put the low D/G on button 1, sacrificing the top button. I wouldn't recommend it.

Sorry for the confusion. I meant I had D/G put on the bottom of the 10-button D row, and lost the f#/c# on the top button. A fourth-button start, if you like. And regretted it. I told myself that I had a top c# on the outer row, which of course I had, but I wouldn't do it again.

I sold that box and since then got Mike Rowbotham to make me a 22-button Hohner with an extra bottom button on the D row. I've got two of them, in fact, although one is on permanent loan to a friend's young son. The second has an extra treble reed block - Double-Ray MMM!

And recently I took delivery of a new Vander Aa 21-button, with the rows 10/11 like Sean's above. The absence of the low Bb is a slight disadvantage I have to say.

The first Rowbotham special has g/e on the top button of the C# row. Useful in about two tunes I have attempted!

Edited: there is a low Bb! It's the low C#/F that is missing, and that is not an issue.

[odonovanchris]

Which row? the c# or d row? It seems to make sense to do it on the c# row

I had a 21-button box and put the low D/G on button 1, sacrificing the top button. I wouldn't recommend it.

Sorry for the confusion. I meant I had D/G put on the bottom of the 10-button D row, and lost the f#/c# on the top button. A fourth-button start, if you like. And regretted it. I told myself that I had a top c# on the outer row, which of course I had, but I wouldn't do it again.

I sold that box and since then got Mike Rowbotham to make me a 22-button Hohner with an extra bottom button on the D row. I've got two of them, in fact, although one is on permanent loan to a friend's young son. The second has an extra treble reed block - Double-Ray MMM!

And recently I took delivery of a new Vander Aa 21-button, with the rows 10/11 like Sean's above. The absence of the low Bb is a slight disadvantage I have to say.

The first Rowbotham special has g/e on the top button of the C# row. Useful in about two tunes I have attempted!

Is that the grey Double Ray from the videos? I was wondering how that extra button got in! Nice modification.

[MácA]

I have two accordions in C#/D, one with the 11 button inner D row, and one regular style C#/D with the very top button on the C# row retuned to D/G. It’s really a matter of training your muscle memory to reach up to the top of the outer row. It really shines if you’re playing certain tunes in A mixolydian on a standard layout C#/D.

[tirpous]

Should I sacrifice the high F#/C# to keep the low D/G? Considering the low G is useful when playing with fiddlers.

Maybe a silly idea: if you only need the G from the low D/G pair and can live without the low F#, this low F# could be retuned up to a G that would be on the D row (but on the push).