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[hickory-wind]

The double clamp ensures that the repair is dead flat. The clear plexi allows inspection of the glue joint so misalignment and excess glue can be prevented.

I often add cloth tape on the inside before glueing to provide additional strength to prevent future cracking.

I discuss this method in this video: https://youtu.be/uvzpD3iFJtw?t=160

The link starts at the discussion but there were many other repairs on this particular Hohner if you wish to watch the whole thing.

Scott

[Winston Smith]

I love to see this sort of thing; little bits of innovation to get around practical problems, or speed them up, and improve end results.
Great to see them, thanks.

[boxcall]

Similar method I used repairing a one row, I used a piece of hard wood.
http://forum.melodeon.net/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=16508.0;attach=16052;image
Very easy to repeat this process with the proper jig.

I like your wooden one Michael. I assume you used plywood of some sort? The green hue adds some interest too!

Scott

thanks Scott, I used a piece of scrap wood I believe the same stuff I used to make the box I just built, so Spanish cedar? I added two pieces of wood on the inside of keyboard to span or add support to the middle of the repair and to keep the bottom and the repair on the same plane.
In a room full of pokerworks I don’t think I’ll have any trouble finding mine

Edit to add : I used a top bearing template bit , made a cut out in plywood the exact size I wanted , then clamped it over the area (Face side) where I wanted to cut. Then just cut a piece to size length and width / thickness, rounded the corners to match router radius. Then I installed it, put a filler in the space inside and drilled it out using the notch marks that are on the keyboard base. I just moved it slightly by adding a shim to the fence to elongate the hole.

[Johnny S]

Back to the original poster's question, it depends on the extent of the damage. If it is only cracked best to carefully glue it back together pic 1. I have a gluing fixture with a rectangular heavy aluminum bar and matching clear plexiglas outer clamp pic 4. The aluminum has tapped holes pic 3. I use a thin steel shim to get the glue into the crack pic 2.

Scott

This is very similar to the keyboard problem i have and I can see that this solution would work and relatively ear to set up.

Additional question then:  How would you deal with the remaining trace crack.  Would you sand, fill, leave as is?   

[boxcall]

Back to the original poster's question, it depends on the extent of the damage. If it is only cracked best to carefully glue it back together pic 1. I have a gluing fixture with a rectangular heavy aluminum bar and matching clear plexiglas outer clamp pic 4. The aluminum has tapped holes pic 3. I use a thin steel shim to get the glue into the crack pic 2.

Scott

This is very similar to the keyboard problem i have and I can see that this solution would work and relatively ear to set up.

Additional question then:  How would you deal with the remaining trace crack.  Would you sand, fill, leave as is?   

If you can get it tight enough and wipe off glue joint,  I’d leave it.
Really depends on how wood has separated.
Edit: You can always touch up if not happy with the results.

[Jon Stapleton]

Those are elegant solutions to a common problem.   A very quick and simple fix (as long as lumps of wood havent disappeared) is to glue 0.8mm ply. available from everyones favourite auction site on the underside of the top of the keyboard.   then drill sand dremel or chew the holes back in place.   Not fancy or clever but cheap effective and something even i can manage.  this has the advantage of strengthening the rather fragile top as well.  if you use the 0.8 mm ply there is no effect on button travel and the keyboard will still slip over the keys for removal.