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Author Topic: Making wood registers for bass reed blocks  (Read 6204 times)

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Peter Stormy Hyde

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Re: Making wood registers for bass reed blocks
« Reply #20 on: August 05, 2011, 12:14:58 AM »

You are very unlikely to run into a chisel ground that way (although I think they may make them for turning,)  the only reason I did it,  when you are cutting into a stack the chisel does not run off, it is not needed for a single thickness.  All you do to grind it is to put another 25 deg on the back edge, I will send a photo later if you still need it, as I'm about too rush out now

PS the mortice chisel is better, not the ones with the bevel down the edge.

Peter

I guess by "double-edged" you mean "double-bevelled" - ie with a bevel on both sides of the cutting edge.  Such chisels are indeed used routinely in woodturning, though they are generally called "skew chisels" because the cutting edge is ground at an angle of about 10-15 deg across the blade rather than at 90 deg, which is what I assume you have done, Peter. You should be able to pick these up cheaply in a variety of sizes at markets, boot sales etc, and it's a simple job to regrind them to 90 deg.  They will also have a square-edged blade like a mortice chisel. Incidentally, I presume you grind a simple bevel on each side like a turning tool, and don't apply a steeper secondary bevel at the cutting edge?

\

Graham

Yes you are right here Graham, I only have a single bevel front and back as I have a water wheel in the workshop, and with the mortice chisel you can then get the same balanced surface back and front, this is needed when you start to cut more than one layer at a time, if you do not have that, then one edge will start to push the leather in one direction, this is all very subtle, but it all starts to mount up with the extra layers.  

Peter
« Last Edit: August 05, 2011, 12:25:10 AM by Peter Stormy Hyde »
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Peter Stormy Hyde

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Re: Making wood registers for bass reed blocks
« Reply #21 on: August 05, 2011, 12:23:16 AM »

They will also have a square-edged blade like a mortice chisel. Incidentally, I presume you grind a simple bevel on each side like a turning tool, and don't apply a steeper secondary bevel at the cutting edge?

Straight carving chisel also usually have a double bevel, by which I mean a bevel on each side of the blade, rather than a secondary bevel on the same side.
Reading Peter's post, however, I'm not clear on why he needs the back bevel, as opposed to the straight (non-beveled) face of a chisel. Has anyone tried using a "corner chisel" for this same job?


Andy the previous post will answer your first question, as far as the corner chisel is concerned I bought a couple for the job, needless to say I did use them once, and I have never used them again they are now in my attic! Why they do not work is that you cannot apply the slight rocking motion that is needed when you are cutting.

Peter
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Andy in Vermont

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Re: Making wood registers for bass reed blocks
« Reply #22 on: August 05, 2011, 02:01:29 AM »

Andy the previous post will answer your first question, as far as the corner chisel is concerned I bought a couple for the job, needless to say I did use them once, and I have never used them again they are now in my attic! Why they do not work is that you cannot apply the slight rocking motion that is needed when you are cutting.

Thanks, Peter! You just saved me about $100!

Peter Stormy Hyde

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Re: Making wood registers for bass reed blocks
« Reply #23 on: August 07, 2011, 02:07:19 PM »


[/quote]


You will find below a picture of one of the sound boards with reed blocks attached and slides in place ready to be glued into the frames.
You will notice the white spacer between the reed block and sound board, this is the art board, as it requires no strength as it is only under compression it is perfect for the job as it is the exact same thickness as the slides. The metal dowels have two uses, (the holes are cut out for these with the router in the jig,) they keep the reed blocks perfectly in place and the clamping plate or girder can be fixed too it.
Using this method the slides are retained within the sound board and the reed blocks have nothing at all that will interfere with the tuning so there is no need to make any adjustments or modifications to your tuning jig.

I have used every other method of fitting slides but this has turned out to be my favorite as it is easy to adjust the reed block tension against the slides, and if the slides do jam up then they are fully removable for servicing.
Oh yes; the reed blocks are foam and you will notice that there has been a change of colour with the product, I much prefer the older pink, it looks nicer! .
Peter
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Telemorris

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Re: Making wood registers for bass reed blocks
« Reply #24 on: August 23, 2011, 11:37:33 PM »

I've made new bottom plates for both bass reed blocks, 2mm thick wood registers with a corresponding slot in the bottom plates, glued a hold down with slots that allow passage of the registers on one side of the bass sound board. Quite pleased with the result.

What I need to design and build now is a way to activate the registers. I've discovered that Bernard Loffet has an interesting design for the button mechanism for the bass registers on his instruments. Would someone with a Loffet with said bass registers please post a photo or two of the button mechanism inside the bass grille? If you are up for it, I'd also like a photo from the reed block side of the bass soundboard showing how the mechanism works and engages the registers.

Thanks!

Ed
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Andy

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Re: Making wood registers for bass reed blocks
« Reply #25 on: September 19, 2017, 11:37:08 PM »

If I used leather for this I would glue the sking side to the wood and leave the nap exposed.  I don't usually use leather though, I prefer the synthetic material sold for the purpose by Carini.  Also I cut the holes after gluing it in place.  Just glue the block to the material, then when its set use a scalpel to cut the holes.  The reedblock bass acts as an excellent template, and there is no worry about lining up the holes or of the material stretching while you glue it in place.   If making new blocks it might be easier to glue the material to the wood before cutting the holes in the wood.

Many apologies for resurrecting an ancient thread.
Can't make much of the Carini site with an online translation -  I have no Italian unfortunately.
Interested in getting some of the synthetic material referred to or something similar. Hoped CGM would have something like this but can't see it. What is currently available that you would recommend?

Can't work out exactly what is on the base of the (Casali) bass reed blocks right now, it is black. Soundboard is bare wood.


Thanks Andy
 
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Rog

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Re: Making wood registers for bass reed blocks
« Reply #26 on: September 19, 2017, 11:43:39 PM »

You might mean Olovisc...under the 'felt/leather/pallets" section on CGM's site. If you Google 'olovisc' the Carini entry does also come up in the results.
« Last Edit: September 19, 2017, 11:45:41 PM by RogerT »
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Theo

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Re: Making wood registers for bass reed blocks
« Reply #27 on: September 20, 2017, 12:10:45 AM »

There are two different types of olovice.  The self adhesive stuff which is a non-woven gasket material that is fine where there is no movement required, but might have two much friction if a register was working on it.  There is also a textile material with a dented nap on one side which is used under most Italian reed blocks and does work well with a register.
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Andy

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Re: Making wood registers for bass reed blocks
« Reply #28 on: September 20, 2017, 06:35:53 PM »

Thanks Theo and RogerT

No registers on this button box and Charlie Marshall sells this one

http://www.cgmmusical.co.uk/CGM_Musical_Services/Felt_Leather_Pallets.html#15

(OLOVISC SELF-STICK CORK-LIKE MATERIAL, SUITABLE FOR REED BLOCK GASKETS, PINNING REEDS TO BLOCKS, ETC. 485 X 75 X 0.7 MM,
REF. NO: 078OL)

So I think I'll go for it.

Can't see that it would make any difference but does it matter whether you stick it to the soundboard or to the underside of reed block? Assuming of course that both surfaces are well prepared, smooth and flat.

Thanks
Andy
_____________________________________________

Although the cork like one should do me here still interested in the other one Theo describes:

'There is also a textile material with a dented nap on one side which is used under most Italian reed blocks and does work well with a register.'

Can't find any it anywhere.

Is it sort of like Alcantara?
« Last Edit: September 20, 2017, 06:53:41 PM by Andy »
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